Fitted Paneled Denim Jacket
A hip-length women's denim jacket with a notched collar, a one-button front and a front made of six sections: a curved yoke over the bust, vertical panels and a shaped insert at the hip. Every front seam is topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- With jeans, trousers or a skirt for everyday wear in spring and autumn.
- Over a shirt or a fine knit as a tailored outer layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by the front panel seams and the back princess seams.
Length: To the upper hip, straight hem.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, upper and under collar.
Closure: Single-breasted, one button with a buttonhole on the right front.
Front: A curved yoke runs from the armhole to the lapel; below it the front is made of centre, second centre, middle and side panels, with a curved insert between the centre and side panels at the hip. Seams are pressed open and topstitched 0.5 cm away.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and back darts.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining cut from all the front panels, back pieces and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Matching six front sections with curved seams and even topstitching, a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, front yoke, front centre panel, back neck facing, upper collar, sleeve and jacket hems)
- 1 button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front 2 – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front 2 – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Front Yoke, Center Front, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, sleeve hems, jacket hem
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Front Yoke, Center Front, Back Neckline Facing and Upper Collar, and to the sleeve and jacket hems.
- Mark the darts on the Back. Stitch the darts and press them towards the centre.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Stitch the Side Front to the Middle Front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the shaped Front Inset to the Center Front and Side Front. Press the seams open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch Center Front 2 to Center Front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Middle Front to the Center Front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the assembled lower front. Press the seam open and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch with the front on top, from the bottom up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: below the lapels, to the facing; along the lapels, to the front. Turn the front edges right side out and press, easing out the seams.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Stitch the princess seams joining the Back and Side Back and press them open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline and the Upper Collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front and sew the button on the left front.
