Sculpted Wrap Jacket with Side Tie
A hip-length women's wrap jacket with a notched collar, a front built from four sections joined by curved seams, and two sewn-in ties that knot at the side. Fully lined, with two-piece set-in sleeves.
When To Wear
- At the office over a fitted top, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- In spring and autumn as a light tailored layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped at the waist by the wrap and the tie.
Length: Just below the waist, to the upper hip.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, cut as an upper and an under collar.
Front: Wrap front, each side made of a yoke and upper, middle and lower sections; the curved seams fan out towards the tie point and are pressed open.
Closure: Two ties stitched into the front edges, a long one on the left front and a short one on the right. The long tie passes through an opening in the right side seam, runs across the back at waist level and knots with the short tie at the left side.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and back darts.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining with an opening in the side seam for the tie; the lining is joined to the jacket at the tie opening.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A multi-section curved front, a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, and a tie passed through the side seam of both jacket and lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, all front sections and yoke, back neck facing, upper collar, sleeve and jacket hems)
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Waistband 1 – 2 pieces
- Waistband 2 – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Front Yoke, Upper Front, Middle Front, Lower Front, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, sleeve hems, jacket hem
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Front Yoke, Upper Front, Middle Front, Lower Front, Back Neckline Facing and Upper Collar, and to the sleeve and jacket hems.
- Mark the darts on the Back. Stitch the darts and press them towards the centre.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edges. Turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Stitch the Upper Front to the Front Yoke and press the seam open. Stitch the Middle Front to the Upper Front and press the seam open. Stitch the Lower Front to the Middle Front and press the seam open.
- Place two Waistband 1 pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving the end that joins the front edge open. Turn right side out and press. Make Waistband 2 the same way. These are the two ties. Stitch the ties to the front edges: the long tie to the left front edge and the short tie to the right front edge.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch with the front on top, from the bottom up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: below the lapels, to the facing; along the lapels, to the front. Turn the front edges right side out and press, easing out the seams.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Stitch the princess seams joining the Back and Side Back and press them open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open, leaving an opening at waist level in the right side seam for the tie.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline and the Upper Collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve for turning and an opening in the side seam for the tie, matching the tie opening in the jacket.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams. Tack the lining to the jacket around the tie opening.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
