Utility Pocket Blazer
A hip-length women's single-breasted jacket with a notched collar, three buttons, flaps at the chest and lined patch pockets with flaps at the hip. Fully lined, with two-piece set-in sleeves.
When To Wear
- In wool for autumn and early spring, over a shirt or a fine knit.
- With trousers or jeans for work and everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by front darts, back shoulder darts and back princess seams.
Length: To the hip, straight hem.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels, upper and under collar.
Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front.
Front: Long vertical front darts running from the chest flap down to the pocket.
Pockets: Two patch pockets with rounded lower corners, lined to the edge, each with a flap topstitched 0.5 cm from the attaching seam. A stitched-down flap at each side of the chest.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Finishing: Front edge seam understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Lined patch pockets with flaps, a notched collar set between the jacket and the facings, buttonholes and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, fronts, flaps, back neck facing, upper collar, sleeve and jacket hems, stay tape)
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Flap – 4 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Pocket Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Flap, Lower Flap, Front, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, sleeve and jacket hems, stay tape.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Flaps, Lower Flaps, Fronts, Back Neckline Facing and Upper Collar, and to the sleeve and jacket hems.
- Mark the darts on the Front and Back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the centre. Stitch the front darts and trim away the excess fabric inside the darts.
- Place two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Ease out the seams and press. Overlock the open edge of the flap. Mark the chest flap placement on the Front. Stitch the flap to the Front along the marking, turn it down and topstitch.
- Place two Lower Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn right side out. Press the flap and overlock its open edge.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, ease out the seams and press the collar.
- Mark the pocket placement. Stitch the Pocket Lining to the upper edge of the Patch Pocket, then stitch the lining and pocket together around the edges, leaving an opening of about 5 cm in the side for turning. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded corners and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket to the Front along the marking. Mark the flap placement. Place the Lower Flap on the marking and stitch it on. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch with the Front on top, from the bottom up to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Stitch the lower ends of the facings to the Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: below the lapels, to the facing; along the lapels, to the Front. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams.
- Stitch the centre back seam and press it open. Stitch the princess seams joining the Back and Side Back and press them open. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press them open.
- Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulders and press the seams open. Stitch the Lower Collar to the jacket neckline and the Upper Collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Stitch the elbow seam of each sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press it open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Assemble the lining: stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press the collar seam allowances open and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
