Sporty Jacket
A short women's denim jacket with a stand collar, a front separating zipper, pleated centre front panels and princess seams front and back, finished with a hem band and two-piece sleeves with snap cuffs.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn.
- With jeans, trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back, short length ending in a hem band.
Collar: Stand collar in two layers, fastened with snaps above the zipper.
Closure: Separating zipper set into the front edges, with the teeth visible, and front facings behind it.
Front: Front yoke; centre front panels with stitched-down vertical pleats, which can be held with rectangular topstitching as shown in the drawing; side front panels.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and princess seams.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a slit in the elbow seam and a two-layer cuff fastened with snaps.
Finishing: Princess seams, yoke seams and centre back seam topstitched 0.5 cm away; front edges topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; collar stand and cuffs topstitched along the contour. The hem band is faced and shows a narrow piping edge from the upper band.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Stitched pleats, many topstitched seams in denim, an exposed separating zipper with facings, a faced hem band joined to the facings, and two-piece sleeves with slits and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (facings, collar stand, cuffs, back hem band, lower hem band)
- Separating zipper
- 4 snaps
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 4. Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 6. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 8. Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- 9. Lower Waistband – 2 pieces
- 10. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 11. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 12. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 13. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 14. Cuff – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Stand Collar, Cuff, Back Waistband and Lower Waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Stand Collar, Cuff, Back Waistband and Lower Waistband.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge up to the notch. Trim the corners, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Mark and fold the pleats on the Center Front. Stitch the pleats down.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front (Side Front to Center Front) and on the back (Side Back to Center Back). Overlock the seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the princess seams.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the front and overlock the seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press it towards the right back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the back and overlock the seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the yoke seam.
- Stitch the Front Waistband to the front and press the seam towards the waistband. Stitch the Back Waistband to the back and press the seam towards the waistband.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner (lower) front and back waistband pieces and press them open. Overlock the upper edge of the inner waistband.
- Place the fronts right sides together, align the edges, matching the yokes, and check the length of the front edges. Stitch the separating zipper to the front edges. Turn under the front edges along the zipper and press.
- Overlock the outer edge of the Center Front Facing. Place the facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, with the front uppermost. Turn the front edges right side out, ease out the seams and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Overlock the side and shoulder seams. Press the side and shoulder seams towards the back.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar into the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner Stand Collar and stitch it in the ditch of the collar seam. Topstitch around the collar. Tack the facings to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Stitch the center front end of the Lower Waistband to the outer edge of the Center Front Facing at the bottom. Press the seam and turn it to the right side. Stitch the inner waistband to the outer waistband around the lower front corner and along the hem. Trim the lower corners of the front edges and turn them right side out. Press the waistband, letting a narrow piping of the outer waistband show on the inside, and stitch the overlocked upper edge of the inner waistband in the ditch of the waistband seam. Topstitch along the front edge 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Overlock the elbow edges of the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve. Stitch the elbow seam up to the slit notch. Press the elbow seam open and topstitch the slit allowances to the sleeve 0.5 cm from the edge. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the elbow seam. Stitch and overlock the front sleeve seam.
- Place the Cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge.
- Stitch the outer cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Turn under the upper edge of the inner cuff by 1 cm and stitch it in the ditch of the cuff seam. Topstitch around the cuff.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Mark and attach the snaps to the Stand Collar and the Cuffs.
- Tip: If desired, you can stitch the pleats on the Center Front with rectangular topstitching, as shown in the drawing.
