Utility Skirt with Zippered Gusset Slits
A women's A-line skirt below the knee with a high shaped waistband, yokes front and back, and four zippered slits (centre front, centre back and both side seams) that open over inset gussets. Two patch pockets with flaps and buckled tabs sit on the front.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear in spring and autumn, with boots or flat shoes.
- With tucked-in shirts and fitted knits that leave the waistband and belt loops visible.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A-line; the gussets add width when the slits are unzipped.
Length: Below the knee.
Waist: Wide waistband sewn above the front and back yokes, faced on the inside; four pointed belt loops fastened to the skirt with snaps.
Closure: Zipper at the top of the centre front seam, through the waistband and yoke.
Skirt: Centre front, centre back and side seams each end in a slit with a zipper; a hemmed gusset is set behind each slit so the zipper teeth stay visible.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the front, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, with flaps; a tab on the flap and a tab on the pocket are joined with a buckle.
Back: Back yoke and waistband, centre back seam with a zippered slit.
Finishing: Yoke seams and zippers topstitched 0.5 cm away; tabs topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge; belt loops topstitched along the contour; hems turned and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Five zippers, four of them in slits with gussets behind, patch pockets with flaps and buckled tabs, a faced waistband with belt loops, and a lot of topstitching.
Fabric Recommendations
Fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front and back waistbands, belt loops, flaps)
- 1 zipper for the front closure
- 4 zippers for the gusset slits
- 4 snaps
- 2 buckles
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- 2. Front Skirt – 2 pieces
- 3. Front Skirt Yoke – 2 pieces
- 4. Front Skirt Waistband – 4 pieces
- 5. Back Skirt Yoke – 1 piece
- 6. Back Skirt Waistband – 2 pieces
- 7. Gore – 4 pieces (the gussets behind the slits)
- 8. Flap – 4 pieces
- 9. Pocket – 2 pieces
- 10. Belt Loop – 8 pieces
- 11. Flap Strap – 2 pieces
- 12. Pocket Strap – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front Skirt Waistband, Back Skirt Waistband, Belt Loop, Flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Front Skirt Waistband, Back Skirt Waistband, Belt Loop and Flap.
- Stitch the Front Skirt Waistband to the Front Skirt Yoke. Overlock the seam and press it towards the waistband. Stitch the yoke to the Front Skirt. Overlock the seam and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Overlock the edges of the Front Skirt. Stitch the center front seam from the yoke down to the slit notch. Press the center front seam open, pressing back the opening allowances above and the slit allowances below. Stitch the closure zipper to the allowances of the upper opening. Stitch a zipper to the allowances of the lower slit. Turn the hem allowance of the Front Skirt to the wrong side, press and topstitch.
- Place the Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the flaps right side out. Press the flaps into their finished shape. Overlock the upper edge of each flap.
- Overlock the upper edge of the Pocket. Press the upper allowance of the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. Overlock the outer edge of the pocket and press the allowances to the wrong side following the pattern.
- The Pocket Strap and the Flap Strap are made the same way. Fold the strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch it on two sides, leaving one short end open for turning. Turn the strap right side out and press. Topstitch around the strap 0.2 cm from the edge. Overlock the raw end. Slip a buckle onto the strap, fold the end of the strap to the wrong side to form a loop and stitch it down. Mark the strap positions on the flap and on the pocket. Stitch the strap on, fold it over and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Mark the positions of the pocket and flap and topstitch the pocket to the Front Skirt 0.5 cm from the pocket edge.
- Overlock the edges of the Gore. Turn up the hem of the gore, press and topstitch it from the wrong side. Baste the gore to the Front Skirt behind the slit so that the zipper teeth stay visible. Topstitch along the zipper 0.5 cm from the zipper seam. Remove the basting.
- Stitch the Back Skirt Waistband to the Back Skirt Yoke. Overlock the seam and press it towards the waistband. Overlock the center and lower edges of the Back Skirt. Stitch the center back seam down to the slit notch. Press the center back seam open, pressing back the slit allowances. Stitch a zipper to the slit allowances. Stitch the Back Skirt Yoke to the Back Skirt. Overlock the seam and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Overlock the side edges of the Back Skirt. Turn the hem allowance of the Back Skirt to the wrong side, press and topstitch. Attach the gore in the same way as on the front.
- Stitch the side seams down to the slit notches. Press the side seams open, pressing back the slit allowances. Stitch a zipper to each slit. Attach the gores in the same way as on the front.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner waistband pieces. Press the seams open and overlock the lower edge of the inner waistband. Place the Belt Loop pieces right sides together and stitch around, leaving the upper edge open. Turn the belt loops right side out, press and topstitch around the edge. Mark the positions and stitch the belt loops to the upper edge of the skirt.
- Place the inner waistband on the upper edge of the skirt, right sides together, and stitch. Understitch the seam allowances to the inner waistband 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the inner waistband to the wrong side and press the top edge of the skirt. Turn under the center front ends of the inner waistband and topstitch 0.5 cm from the zipper, catching the folded ends. Stitch the overlocked lower edge of the inner waistband in the ditch of the outer waistband seam. Mark and attach the snaps to the belt loops and the skirt.
