Leather Jacket
A hip-length women's jacket in leather or faux leather, single-breasted with three buttons and a notched collar. Overlaid front yokes with welt pockets, patch pockets with welt openings, deep cuffs with three buttons and a full lining.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over shirts, fine knitwear and dresses.
- With jeans or trousers for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped with front darts topstitched 0.2 cm from the dart, a horizontal seam across the front and princess seams at the back.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar, with the upper collar set into the jacket neckline and the under collar into the facing.
Front: Single-breasted with three buttons. Each front is made of an upper and a lower centre part and a side part.
Pockets: A shaped yoke laid over each upper front and topstitched along its outer edge, with a welt pocket in it. Below, a patch pocket on each lower front, topstitched on three sides, with its own welt opening.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves with deep cuffs, each with three buttons; the cuff seam is topstitched.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams, all topstitched.
Finishing: Hem finished with interfaced bottom facings joined to the lining and topstitched; front edges, collar, yoke and pocket edges and cuffs are cut to the finished line and the leather edges are left raw.
Lining: Full lining in the body and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Working with leather, welt pockets in yokes and patch pockets, a collar set between jacket and facing, cuffs and a full lining joined to the hem facings.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux or genuine leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, pocket facings, back neck facing, hem facings)
- 9 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back center bottom facing - 1 piece
- 2. Back side bottom facing - 2 pieces
- 3. Front bottom facing - 2 pieces
- 4. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
- 5. Yoke – 2 pieces
- 6. Back center - 2 pieces
- 7. Back side – 2 pieces
- 8. Lower collar – 1 piece
- 9. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 10. Front side – 2 pieces
- 11. Front center upper – 2 pieces
- 12. Front center lower – 2 pieces
- 13. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 14. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- 15. Yoke pocket facing – 2 pieces
- 16. Patch pocket facing – 2 pieces
- 17. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 18. Cuff – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back center - 2 pieces
- 2. Back side – 2 pieces
- 3. Front side – 2 pieces
- 4. Front center upper – 2 pieces
- 5. Front center lower – 2 pieces
- 6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, pocket facings, back neckline facing, front, back, and side bottom facings.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front facings, pocket facings, back neckline facing, and the bottom facings of the front, back, and side PANELs.
- Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch front darts and trim the dart depth. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the darts.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the front. Press seam allowance towards the upper. Attach the front side to the center front and press the seam open.
- Fold the yoke pocket facing with the yoke right sides together and stitch along the marked lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel and the distance between them equal to twice the finished width of the facings). Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket facing through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch around the perimeter of the pocket opening. Lay the yoke wrong side onto the right side of the front and topstitch along the outer contour.
- The processing of the welt pocket on the patch pocket is similar. Lay the patch pocket wrong side onto the right side of the lower front and topstitch along three sides.
- Stitch and press the center back seam. Stitch and press the back princess seams. Topstitch along the seams. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the front facings. Insert the upper collar into the jacket neckline, and the lower collar into the facing neckline.
- Place the front facing with the collar on the wrong side of the front, wrong side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge and collar. Press the collar insertion seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
- Fold cuff pieces, wrong sides together, and topstitch along three sides. Fold the cuff into a ring along the marked line and secure. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, press the seam towards the sleeve. Topstitch along the cuff attachment seam. Insert sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- Stitch together the bottom facing pieces of the front, back, and side PANELs. Press seams open. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch darts, seams, and insert sleeves. Press lining seam allowances. Attach the bottom facing to the lining. Press the seam towards the lining. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the neckline facing. Turn the jacket right side out.
- Align the bottom edges of the jacket and facings and topstitch. Fold under the bottom seam allowance of the sleeve lining and secure to the cuff.
- On the right front, mark and make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons. Sew buttons to the sleeve cuff.
