Collarless Jacket with Decorative Trim
A women's hip-length collarless jacket with a round neckline, a zip front and two-piece set-in sleeves. The fronts and back are cut in three horizontal sections, and decorative braid is topstitched along the joining seams, the front edges and the neckline.
When To Wear
- For the office over a blouse, with a pencil skirt or straight trousers.
- In spring and autumn over a dress or with jeans.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by bust darts; hip length.
Neckline: Round, collarless, finished with a front facing and a back neck facing.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves.
Front: Each front has a yoke, a centre section and a lower section; zip at the centre front, with interfaced facings.
Pockets: Pockets set into the seam between the centre and lower front sections, under topstitched flaps; pocket bags in lining fabric.
Back: Centre back seam, with a back yoke and a lower back section; braid along both horizontal seams.
Finishing: Braid on the front yoke seams, the lower front seams, the back yoke and lower back seams, the front edges and the whole neckline. Back neck facing tacked to the shoulder seams with 1 cm bar tacks; hem overlocked and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pockets set into a horizontal seam under flaps, two-piece set-in sleeves, a zip front with facings and even application of braid along seams and edges.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight fabrics with body: wool or wool blend suiting, tweed, boucle.
Additional Supplies
- Decorative braid
- Zip for the centre front
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front facings, flaps, back neck facing)
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Elbow Piece – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Flap, front pieces, Neckline Facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Mark and stitch the darts on the front. Press the bust darts.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the Center Front. Overlock the seam and press it towards the Center Front. Topstitch decorative braid over the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the Center Back. Overlock the seam and press it towards the Center Back.
- Stitch the Lower Back to the Center Back. Overlock the seam and press it towards the Lower Back.
- Stitch the centre back seam, overlock it and press it towards the right back. Topstitch decorative braid over the Back Yoke and Lower Back seams.
- Place the Flap pieces together in pairs, right sides together, and stitch. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and turn the flaps right side out. Press the finished flaps.
- Mark the stitching line on the Flap and stitch the flap to the Center Front. Place the Pocket Lining pieces right side down on the right side of the Center Front and the Lower Front, matching the notches, and stitch them on. Overlock the lower edge of the Center Front and the upper edge of the Lower Front. Press the seam allowances towards the Pocket Lining and understitch them onto the Pocket Lining. Stitch the Lower Front to the Center Front. Stitch and overlock the Pocket Lining pieces together. Topstitch decorative braid over the Lower Front seam.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Overlock the side and shoulder seams and press them towards the back.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seam and overlock it. Press the seam towards the Front Sleeve. Stitch the lower sleeve seam, overlock it and press it towards the Sleeve Elbow Piece.
- Stitch the zip to the fronts.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Center Front Facing and the Neckline Facing. Press the shoulder seams open and overlock the outer edge of the facings.
- Place the facings on the right side of the jacket, right sides together, pin and stitch around the front and back neckline and along the front edges, working from the front side. Mark the hemline. Stitch the lower ends of the Center Front Facing to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edges. Turn the front edges right side out and ease out the seams. Topstitch braid along the front edges and around the front and back neckline. Secure the Neckline Facing to the shoulder seams of the jacket with 1 cm bar tacks.
- Overlock the hem of the jacket, turn it up and topstitch it.
