Elbow Sleeve Zip-Front Shirt with Patch Pockets
A women's hip-length denim shirt with a separating zip front, a turn-down collar, front yokes with two patch pockets, and elbow-length sleeves with turn-ups held by a buttoned tab.
When To Wear
- In late spring and summer with jeans, chinos or a skirt.
- Open over a T-shirt or top as a light shirt-jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped with bust darts at the front and waist darts at the back.
Length: Hip length with a straight hem; 3 cm hem allowance, topstitched.
Collar: Turn-down shirt collar cut as upper and lower collar, with the upper collar interfaced and the collar topstitched.
Closure: Centre front separating zip set between the fronts and interfaced front facings, topstitched along the zip seam; the facings are bar-tacked to the shoulder seams.
Front: Front yokes, with the yoke seam pressed up and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Two patch pockets below the yokes, the top edge finished with an interfaced facing turned to the right side and topstitched; pockets attached 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves eased at the cap, ending at the elbow with a double-folded turn-up and a tab buttoned over it.
Back: One piece with two vertical waist darts pressed towards the centre back.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A separating zip with facings, a two-piece collar, faced patch pockets and folded sleeve turn-ups with tabs.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim with stretch fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, upper collar, sleeve turn-ups, pocket facings)
- Separating zip
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Pocket - 2 pieces
- Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, upper collar, cuff, pocket facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to: front facing, upper collar and cuff, pocket facing.
- Stitch bust darts on the front and waist darts on the back. Press bust darts downwards, and waist darts on the back towards the center back.
- Attach and serge the yoke to the front, press the attachment seam towards the yoke and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the zipper to the front panels.
- Mark the pocket placement on the front. Finish the upper edge of the pocket with a facing. Turn the facing to the right side and press the upper edge. Press the lower edge of the pocket facing by 1 cm and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the edge. Serge the pocket along the outer contour, leaving the pocket opening free. Press the serged seam allowances according to the pattern. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch along the outer contour at 0.5 cm from the pocket edge.
- Serge the inner edge of each front facing. Finish the front with the front facing.
- Turn the front facings to the wrong side and fold under. Baste the edge of the front opening, press, and topstitch.
- Topstitch along the zipper attachment seam.
- Stitch and serge the shoulder seams of the shirt. Press the shoulder seams towards the back.
- Stitch and serge the side seams of the shirt. Press the side seams towards the back.
- Finish the lower collar with the upper collar, turn the collar out.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline, fold under the open edge of the upper collar and topstitch into the lower collar attachment seam. Topstitch along the collar. Secure the front facings to the shoulder seams with a 1 cm bar tack.
- Fold the strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the upper corner and side edge of the strap, leaving the lower edge of the strap free for turning. Turn the strap out and press it.
- Mark the strap attachment point on the lower edge of the sleeve and attach it at 0.5 cm from the edge of the seam allowance. Serge the lower edge of the sleeve. Mark the turn-ups on the sleeves, press the upper fold of the turn-up. Fold the turn-up, measuring the width of the turn-ups along the entire length, and press a second time. Topstitch the hem allowance to the sleeve.
- Stitch and serge the sleeve seam. Press the sleeve seam towards the back.
- Set in the sleeves, easing at the cap.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, fold under, and topstitch.
- Serge buttonholes on the strap and sew on buttons.
