Fabric & Materials
From main fabric:
From fusible interfacing: front facing, upper collar, collar stand, cuff.
Cutting Plan
- Yoke – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar Stand – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, upper collar, collar stand, and cuff.
- Mark and stitch darts on the front. Press darts downwards.
- Serge/overlock the inner edge of the front facing.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seam allowances at flap corners and turn right side out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge and serge/overlock the upper edge of the flap.
- Serge/overlock the outer contour of the pocket and press it according to the pattern. Topstitch the upper edge onto the pocket, mark the pocket placement, and topstitch it along the contour 0.2 cm from the pocket edge. Place the flap to the mark and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and serge/overlock the center back seam. Press the center back seam towards the right back.
- Attach the yoke to the front. Serge/overlock the attachment seam and press towards the front.
- Face the front edges with facings, trim excess fabric at corners, and turn facings right side out. Press the front edges.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Serge/overlock the attachment seam and press towards the back. Stitch and serge/overlock the side seams of the shirt. Press the side seams of the shirt towards the back.
- Mark and cut the sleeve placket opening. Fold bias binding in half lengthwise and press. Finish the placket opening with bias binding, place a bar tack at the top corner of the opening. Stitch and serge/overlock the sleeve seam. Press the sleeve seam. Form pleats at the bottom of the sleeve from notch to notch.
- Set in sleeves, easing the cap.
- Stitch the lower collar to the upper collar, turn the collar right side out. Press the collar.
- Stitch the collar stands, inserting the collar between them. Press the collar stand.
- Attach the lower collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the upper collar stand and topstitch into the seam of the lower collar stand attachment.
- Stitch the side edges of the cuff and turn it right side out. Press the cuff into its finished shape.
- Attach the upper cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, and turn under and topstitch the lower cuff.
- Serge/overlock, fold under, and topstitch the hem of the garment.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
