Mixed Media Denim Style Jacket
A hip-length women's hooded jacket that combines two fabrics: a denim front with princess seams, yokes and buttoned flaps, and a knit back, sleeves and hood. Button front with a drawstring hood.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and early autumn, over T-shirts and sweatshirts.
- With jeans, joggers or a denim skirt for everyday casual wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, semi-fitted body shaped by the front princess seams; hip length.
Front: Each front is cut in three vertical panels (centre, middle and side), with the princess seams pressed towards the middle panel and topstitched with a double row 0.2 cm from the seam. A denim front yoke is topstitched with a double row 0.2 cm from the edge.
Closure: Centre front button closure with buttonholes on the right front; the front edges are finished with interfaced facings and double topstitching 0.2 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Two pointed chest flaps set into the lower edge of the front yokes, each topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and held with a button.
Back: Knit back with a denim back yoke topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam.
Hood: Three-piece knit hood with a centre panel, a drawstring threaded through buttonholes at the front edge, and the neckline finished with the front facings and a back neck facing.
Sleeves: Long set-in knit sleeves with folded double-layer cuffs.
Finishing: Serged seams; 3 cm hem allowance.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Joining denim to knit, multi-panel princess seams with double topstitching, faced front edges and a hood set between the jacket and the facings.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim for the front, yokes, facings and flaps; knit fabric for the back, sleeves, hood and cuffs.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
- 7 buttons
- Cord for the hood drawstring
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Front side -2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Front middle – 2 pieces
- Front center – 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From knit fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood center – 1 piece
- Hood -2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing and back neckline facing.
- Stitch and serge the princess seam of the front side and front middle. Press the front princess seam towards the front middle. Stitch and serge the princess seam of the front center and front middle. Press the front princess seam towards the front middle. Topstitch a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the princess seam.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Serge the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch a decorative stitch on the back yoke 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim seam allowances at the corners of the flaps and turn right side out. Topstitch a decorative stitch along the outer contour of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Place the flap on the front yoke and attach it to the lower edge of the yoke between the vertical notches. Attach the yoke to the front. Serge the yoke attachment seam. Topstitch a double decorative stitch on the front yoke 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Serge the outer edge of the front facing and back neckline facing. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the front side. Turn the edges right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch a double decorative stitch 0.2 cm from the edge. Stitch the shoulder edges of the front facing and back neckline facing.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Serge the side and shoulder seams. Press the shoulder and side seams towards the back.
- Stitch and serge the hood parts. Serge the front seam of the hood. Mark and serge the buttonholes. Fold the front edge of the hood and topstitch. Attach the hood to the neckline. Finish the neckline with the front facing and back neckline facing. Secure the outer edge of the front facing to the jacket's shoulder seam with a 1cm bar tack.
- Stitch the side edges of the cuff. Stitch and serge the sleeve edges. Fold the stitched cuff in half and attach it to the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches.
- On the right front, serge the buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on the buttons. Thread the cord through the hood buttonholes.
