Fitted Tailcoat Jacket with Flounced Hem

Women’s Tailcoat with Cascading Flounce

Introducing a women’s sewing pattern for a fitted tailcoat featuring sculpted waist shaping, contoured panel construction, and a dramatic cascading flounce along the cutaway front and the elongated, rounded back hem — Structured Tailoring with Architectural Movement.

When To Wear

This tailcoat is designed as a bold, fashion-forward statement piece, suitable for:

Contemporary Statement Styling
A structured yet expressive outer layer for elevated daywear or modern city styling.

Editorial & Fashion Presentation
Ideal for photoshoots, fashion showcases, and concept-driven collections requiring movement and strong silhouette.

Modern Tailoring with Attitude
Perfect for designers exploring tailored structure combined with fluid, layered back detailing.

Key Design Features

Silhouette
Fitted, waist-shaped tailcoat with a sharply contoured torso, a cutaway front and an elongated, rounded back hem that creates volume and dynamic movement.

Collar
Classic tailored collar constructed from upper and lower collar pieces, framing the neckline with structured precision.

Closure
Single-button front closure that emphasizes the shaped waist and clean front lines.

Sleeves
Two-piece set-in sleeves with shaped construction.

Back
Multi-panel back with a center back seam and princess seams; the long rounded hem is finished with the flounce, creating a cascading, architectural tail effect.

Flounce
A flounce attached along the entire lower edge of the jacket, from the front edges around the back.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. This pattern requires confident tailoring skills, including collar construction, precise panel alignment, flounce integration, and accurate shaping through multiple seam lines.

Fabric Recommendations

Denim (jeans fabric) is recommended to support structure and defined shaping.

You may also consider other structured woven fabrics that hold shape while allowing the flounce layers to fall cleanly.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing
• 1 button for front closure

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

• Center Back – 2 pieces
• Side Back – 2 pieces
• Front Side – 2 pieces
• Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
• Center Front – 2 pieces
• Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
• Upper Collar – 1 piece
• Lower Collar – 1 piece
• Flounce – 2 pieces
• Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
• Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

All interfacing pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces.

• Center Front Facing
• Back Neckline Facing
• Lower Collar

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing Preparation

Apply fusible interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, and Lower Collar.

2. Collar Assembly

Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together.
Stitch the Lower Collar with the Upper Collar along the outer edges.

Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the collar right side out, and carefully shape the corners.

3. Princess Seams – Front and Back

Stitch and overlock the princess seams:
– Center Front with Front Side
– Center Back with Side Back

Press the seam allowances on the front toward the center front, and on the back toward the center back.

4. Facings – Edge Finishing

Overlock the outer edges of the Center Front Facing and the Back Neckline Facing.

5. Center Front Facing Attachment

Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Center Front, right sides together, and pin.

Stitch along the front edge, working from the Center Front side up to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment.

Trim the seam allowances at the upper corners of the front edge.

Understitch the seam allowance:
– along the closure area, to the Center Front Facing
– along the lapel area, to the Center Front

Position the understitching 0.2 cm from the seam.

Turn the front edges right side out and carefully shape the edges.

6. Center Back Seam

Stitch and overlock the center back seam of the Center Back pieces.

Press the seam allowances to one side.

7. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch and overlock the shoulder and side seams.

Press the seam allowances toward the back.

8. Facing Assembly

Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing.

Press the seam allowances open.

9. Sleeve – Elbow Seam

Stitch and overlock the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve).

Press the seam allowances open.

10. Sleeve – Front Seam

Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and overlock the seam allowances.

Press the seam allowances toward the front (Upper Sleeve).

Press the 3 cm sleeve hem allowance to the wrong side.

11. Sleeve Insertion

Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning all notches.

Overlock the armhole seam allowances.

12. Collar Attachment

Attach the assembled collar to the neckline of the jacket.

13. Flounce Assembly and Attachment

Stitch and overlock the center seam of the Flounce pieces.

Press the seam allowances toward the right Flounce piece.

Attach the Flounce to the lower edge of the jacket and overlock the seam allowances.

Turn under the lower edge of the Center Front Facing and secure it to the flounce attachment seam.

14. Buttonhole and Button

Work the buttonhole on the right Center Front.

Sew the button on the left Center Front.