Hipster Skirt with Front Flounce
A women's maxi denim skirt on a deep shaped hip yoke, with stitched-down pleats on the front and back, single-welt pockets and a centre front opening edged with cascading flounces.
When To Wear
- In spring, summer and autumn with a fitted T-shirt, shirt or knit top tucked in or worn short.
- With flat sandals or boots for daytime and travel.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the hip yoke, falling straight to the ankle from the stitched pleats.
Length: Maxi, with an uneven hem that drops to points at the front opening.
Waist: Deep interfaced yoke sitting on the hips, with no separate waistband; the top edge is faced with a second yoke and topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge.
Front: Separate left and right front panels and yokes; centre front zip topstitched on the right side, closed at the yoke with a button and buttonhole.
Skirt: Vertical pleats on the front and back panels, stitched down and topstitched; below the zip the centre front opens, and its edges carry two flounces with the edges serged and topstitched 0.5 cm.
Pockets: Two single-welt pockets on the front panels, with the pocket bags topstitched to the skirt.
Back: Back yoke and two back panels joined by a centre back seam topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Seams serged; hem turned and topstitched 0.5 cm from the fold.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, a centre front zip, stitched pleats, a faced yoke and flounces attached along the front opening.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (back yoke, left and right front yokes)
- Zip
- Button
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- 2. Pocket facing – 2 pieces
- 3. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 4. Back – 2 pieces
- 5. Left Front – 1 piece
- 6. Right Front – 1 piece
- 7. Left Front Yoke – 1 piece
- 8. Right Front Yoke – 1 piece
- 9. Flounce – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Back Yoke, Left Front Yoke, Right Front Yoke.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to: Back Yoke, Left Front Yoke, Right Front Yoke.
- Mark and press pleats on the left and right Front Panels. Stitch the pleats, similar pleat treatment on the Back.
- Stitch the center seam of the Back and serge. Press the seam to the right half and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the right Front Yoke to the right Front. Attach the left Front Yoke to the left Front skirt half. Press seams towards the yokes. Serge the center edge of the right and left Front Panels.
- Mark the pocket placement on the right and left Front Panels with three lines: one grain line indicating the pocket direction and attachment line, and two transverse lines defining the pocket size. Fold the pocket facing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Measure the width of the facing along its entire length and mark the attachment line of the facing to the main piece. Place the facing on the right side of one pocket lining piece, right side up, aligning the edges and extending the lining edges evenly beyond the ends of the welt. Baste and stitch the facing with one lining piece to the main piece along the marked lines. The facing should be between the main piece and the pocket lining. Place the second lining piece on the right side of the main piece, right side down, butt-to-butt with the facing attachment seam. Remove basting threads. Cut the pocket opening, making slanted cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the lining through the opening to the wrong side, fold the facing to its finished position. Baste and press the facing attachment seam. Secure the pocket ends with a double stitch from the wrong side and stitch the pocket lining. Serge the pocket lining and topstitch to the main piece. Remove basting threads.
- Serge the bottom edge of the flounce and press it towards the flounce. Topstitch the seam allowances onto the flounce 0.5 cm from the flounce edge.
- Attach the flounce to the right and left halves of the Front. Serge and press the attachment seam.
- Press the center seam of the Front and topstitch. Insert the zipper and topstitch on the right side.
- Stitch the side edges of the Front and Back Panels. Serge the side seams of the skirt and press towards the Back.
- Stitch the side edges of the interfaced yokes and press seams open. Serge the bottom edge of the yokes. Place yokes right sides together and stitch the top edge of the garment. Topstitch the stitching seam 0.2 cm from the stitching seam onto the interfaced facings and press. Topstitch the interfaced yokes into the yoke attachment seam. Turn under the center edges of the interfaced facings and hand stitch.
- Serge the bottom edge of the skirt, press it, and topstitch onto the skirt 0.5 cm from the fold.
- On the right Front, serge a buttonhole, and on the left Front, sew a button.
