Utility Denim Coat with Stand Collar and Utility Patch Pockets with flaps
A women's ankle-length lined denim coat, fitted at the waist, with a stand collar, shoulder tabs and three flap patch pockets, one of them on the sleeve. Fastens with snaps.
When To Wear
- In spring and early autumn over jeans, knitwear or a shirt dress.
- As a long casual layer in cool, dry weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with darts, horizontal waist seam, long straight skirt part with princess seams on the front and back.
Length: To the ankle.
Collar: Two-part stand collar set into the neckline; the upper fronts turn back into lapels above the waist.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams; shoulder tabs caught into the armhole seam.
Closure: Single-breasted, closed with snaps below the waist; front edges finished with double topstitching 0.2 cm from the edge.
Pockets: Two patch pockets with flaps on the lower fronts and one on the left sleeve. Each pocket has a pleat in the facing secured with a 1–1.5 cm vertical bar tack; flaps are double-topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge and close with a snap.
Waist: A separate, interfaced trim band with rounded front ends is laid over the waist seam all around.
Back: Darts in the upper back; centre back seam with a vent at the hem; princess seams below the waist.
Finishing: Hem and sleeve hems turned up 3 cm.
Lining: Full lining cut from the bodice, skirt and sleeve pieces, sewn to the facings and back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A lined coat with a vent, a stand collar set between coat and facing, two-piece sleeves and pleated flap pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim. Satin for the lining.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (satin)
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, lower collar stand, vent area, flaps, waist trim)
- 9 snap fasteners
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Facing – 2 pieces
- Lower Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
- Lower Flap – 4 pieces
- Upper Pocket Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Patch Pocket – 1 piece
- Upper Flap – 2 pieces
- Back Trimming – 2 pieces
- Front Trimming – 4 pieces
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Shoulder Strap – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, lower Stand Collar, vent area of the Side Back, under flaps, Front Trimming, Back Trimming.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, the lower Stand Collar, the vent area of the Side Back, the under flaps, the Front Trimming and the Back Trimming.
- Place the upper and lower Stand Collar right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Clip the corners and turn the stand right side out.
- Stitch the side edges of the Front Trimming and Back Trimming together and press the seams open. Place the two joined trim layers right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Trim the excess fabric at the rounded ends of the front trim, turn the trim band right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts of the Upper Front and Upper Back and press them open. Stitch the princess seams joining the Side Front and Center Front and press them open. Stitch the princess seams joining the Side Back and Center Back and press them open.
- Place the Shoulder Strap pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch around the outer edge, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the shoulder straps right side out and press.
- Stitch the side seams of the Upper Front and Upper Back and press them open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Upper Front and Upper Back and press them open. Place the joined trim band on the upper front and back with the raw edges level and baste it in place.
- Stitch the centre back seam of the Center Back down to the vent. Press under 1 cm along the edge of the under layer of the vent. Press the centre back seam open and press the vent. Topstitch diagonally across the top of the vent along the marking, catching in the vent allowance.
- Stitch the side seams of the Side Front and Side Back and press them open. Stitch the upper front and back to the joined lower front and back. Remove the basting from the trim band.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and press it open.
- Place the Upper Flap pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Turn the flap right side out through the open upper edge. Ease the seams into place and topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the edge of the flap. Make the Lower Flaps the same way. Mark the pocket position on the sleeve. Overlock the side edge of the Upper Pocket Facing. Stitch the Upper Pocket Facing to the side and lower edges of the Upper Patch Pocket and overlock. Turn under the upper edge of the pocket and topstitch. Fold a pleat in the pocket facing and secure it to the pocket with a 1–1.5 cm vertical bar tack. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it on. Place the flap at the marking and stitch it on. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Make the Lower Patch Pockets with the Lower Pocket Facings the same way.
- Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press it open. Press up the sleeve hem.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, stitching from the front side up to the notch that marks the end of the stand collar seam. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the Center Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out, ease the seams into place and topstitch a double row 0.2 cm from the edge. Join the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings and press the seams open.
- Stitch the lower Stand Collar into the neckline of the coat, and the upper Stand Collar to the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
- Baste the Shoulder Strap to the upper part of the armhole edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Remove the basting.
- Sew the lining pieces together, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve, and set in the lining sleeves. Press the lining seams. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press open the seam allowances of the stand collar seams and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the coat lining to the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Turn under the lower edges of the sleeve linings and stitch them to the sleeve hem allowance of the coat; fold the excess lining down and press. Turn the coat right side out. Smooth out the lining, pin its side seams to the side seams of the coat and carefully cut the lining along the vent edges, 1 cm further towards the centre back seam. Stop 1 cm short of the top of the vent and make 1 cm diagonal cuts to both sides. Turn the cut edges in and pin them to the vent edges. Reach between the coat and the lining, take hold of the pinned edges and pull them out one at a time. Stitch them, then fold the hem allowance back down. Straighten the vent edges. At the top of the vent, turn under the corner of the lining and sew it to the vent allowance.
- Set the cap parts of the snaps on the flaps and the socket parts on the pockets, at the markings. Set the cap parts of the snaps on the right front and the socket parts on the left front, at the markings.
