Stand-Collar Faux Leather Coat
A below-the-knee women's coat in faux leather with a stand collar, a separating zip down the centre front, front and back yokes, princess seams and flapped patch pockets at the hip. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring as a light outer layer over jeans, trousers or knitwear.
- Over a dress or skirt of shorter length, with boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, interfaced, with the upper stand joined to the facing.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, set with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: Separating zip set into the front edge, with the facing turned and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge. A decorative belt tab crosses the front at the waist and fastens with snaps.
Pockets: Patch pockets at the hip with a cut-on facing and a lining, under rounded flaps fastened with snaps. Rounded flaps are also set into the front yoke seam at the chest and snap onto the front.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and princess seams, all topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Topstitching 0.5 cm from the edge on the yokes, flaps, pockets, belt tab and front edges; the upper pocket corners are secured with a double row of stitching.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Faux leather pressed only through a pressing cloth, a zip set between the front and facing, lined patch pockets, setting snaps and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre fronts, yokes, stand collar, flaps, armholes, hem allowances)
- Separating zip
- 12 snap fasteners
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- 4. Back Yoke – 1 piece
- 5. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 7. Flap – 4 pieces
- 8. Front Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
- 9. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- 10. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- 11. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 12. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 13. Pocket – 4 pieces
- 14. Decorative Belt – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- 1. Center Back – 1 piece
- 2. Side Back – 2 pieces
- 3. Side Front – 2 pieces
- 4. Center Front – 2 pieces
- 5. Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
- 6. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Center Front, Front Yoke, lower edge of Side Front, Back Yoke, lower edge of Side Back, Front Pocket Flap, Flap, Stand Collar, armhole of Side Front, armhole of Side Back; hem allowances of Lower Sleeve, Upper Sleeve, Center Back and Side Back.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Center Front, Front Yoke, Back Yoke, Stand Collar, the armholes of the Side Front and Side Back, the Front Pocket Flap and the Flap, and to the hem allowances of the Center Back, Side Back, Lower Sleeve, Upper Sleeve and Side Front.
- Place the upper and lower Stand Collar right sides together and stitch along the upper edge.
- Place each Flap and Front Pocket Flap on its underflap, right sides together, and stitch. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded corners and turn right side out. Topstitch around the outer edge of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back (Center Front to Side Front, Center Back to Side Back).
- Place the Flap on the Front Yoke and stitch it to the lower edge of the yoke between the vertical marks. Stitch the Front Yoke to the front. Topstitch along the Front Yoke 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the center back seam. Topstitch along the center back seam 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Topstitch along the Back Yoke 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the Pocket Lining to the cut-on facing of the Pocket, then stitch the lining and pocket together around the edges, leaving an opening of about 5 cm in the side edge for turning. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded corners and turn the pocket right side out.
- Place the Front Pocket Flap on the front at the markings and stitch it on, then fold it down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Place the Pocket on the front at the markings and topstitch it on around the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge. Reinforce the upper corners of the pockets with a double row of stitching.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
- Stitch the lower Stand Collar into the neckline.
- Place the fronts right sides together, align the edges and match the yokes, then check that the front edges are the same length. Stitch the separating zip to the front edges. Fold the front edges under along the zip section and press through a pressing cloth.
- Stitch the upper Stand Collar to the Center Front Facing.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Stitch the ends of the stand collar and the front edge along the marked line, stitching from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out and ease the seams into place. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, then the front seam (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve). Press up the sleeve hem.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the upper Stand Collar. Press open the seam allowances of the collar seams and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hem of the coat. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Place the Decorative Belt pieces right sides together and stitch around the edges, leaving an opening in the upper edge for turning. Trim the seam allowances at the rounded corners and turn right side out. Topstitch around the outer edge of the belt 0.5 cm from the edge. Mark and set the cap parts of the snaps on the belt and the socket parts on the front.
- Set the cap parts of the snaps on the Flaps and the socket parts on the Center Front and Side Front, at the markings. Set the cap parts of the snaps on the Front Pocket Flaps and the socket parts on the Pockets, at the markings.
