Stand-Collar Faux Leather Coat
A below-the-knee women's coat in faux leather with a stand collar, a separating zip down the centre front, front and back yokes, princess seams and flapped patch pockets at the hip. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring as a light outer layer over jeans, trousers or knitwear.
- Over a dress or skirt of shorter length, with boots.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Two-piece stand collar, interfaced, with the upper stand joined to the facing.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, set with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: Separating zip set into the front edge, with the facing turned and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge. A decorative belt tab crosses the front at the waist and fastens with snaps.
Pockets: Patch pockets at the hip with a cut-on facing and a lining, under rounded flaps fastened with snaps. Rounded flaps are also set into the front yoke seam at the chest and snap onto the front.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and princess seams, all topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Topstitching 0.5 cm from the edge on the yokes, flaps, pockets, belt tab and front edges; the upper pocket corners are secured with a double row of stitching.
Lining: Full lining, bagged out through an opening in the sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Faux leather pressed only through a pressing cloth, a zip set between the front and facing, lined patch pockets, setting snaps and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (facings, centre fronts, yokes, stand collar, flaps, armholes, hem allowances)
- Separating zip
- 12 snap fasteners
- Shoulder pads and sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side back – 2 pieces
- 3. Front Yoke - 2 pieces
- 4. Back Yoke - 1 piece
- 5. Side front – 2 pieces
- 6. Center front – 2 pieces
- 7. Flap – 4 pieces
- 8. Front Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
- 9. Stand – 2 pieces
- 10. Facing – 2 pieces
- 11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 13. Pocket – 4 pieces
- 14. Decorative Belt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Center back – 1 piece
- 2. Side back - 2 pieces
- 3. Side front – 2 pieces
- 4. Center front – 2 pieces
- 5. Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Facing, center front, front yoke, bottom of side front, back yoke, bottom of side back, front pocket flap, flap, stand, armhole of side front, armhole of side back; hem seam allowances: lower sleeve, upper sleeve, center back, side back, center back.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the facing, center front, front yoke, back yoke, stand, armhole of side front, armhole of side back, front pocket flap, flap; hem seam allowances of the center back, side back, lower sleeve, upper sleeve, side front.
- Place the upper stand and lower stand right sides together and stitch along the outer edge.
- Place the flaps and underflaps right sides together and stitch. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded corners of the flaps and turn out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flaps 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back.
- Place the flap on the front yoke and attach it to the bottom of the yoke between the vertical notches. Attach the yoke to the front. Topstitch along the front yoke 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the center back seam. Topstitch along the center back seam 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Attach the yoke to the back. Topstitch along the back yoke 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Attach the pocket lining to the integrated pocket facing and stitch the lining and pocket edges along the contour, leaving an opening in the side seam about 5 cm long for turning the pocket. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded corners of the pocket and turn the pocket out.
- Place the front pocket flap on the front according to the markings and topstitch, then fold back and topstitch 0.5 cm from the topstitching seam. Place the pocket on the front according to the markings and topstitch along the outer contour 0.5 cm from the edge. Secure the upper corners of the pockets with a double stitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
- Insert the lower stand into the coat neckline.
- Place the front panels right sides together and align the edges, matching the yokes, measure the length of the facings. Attach the zipper to the edge of the facing. Fold the edges of the facing in the zipper area and press with a pressing cloth.
- Attach the upper stand to the facing.
- Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Stitch the ends of the stand and the facing along the marked line. Stitching is done from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the facing. Turn the facings to the right side, straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Press the hem of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pattern pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the upper stand. Press open the seam allowances of the stand insertion seams and secure close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the coat. Turn the coat through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Place the decorative belt pieces right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening in the upper edge for turning. Trim the seam allowances of the rounded corners of the belt and turn out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the belt 0.5 cm from the edge. Mark and attach the upper of the snaps to the belt, and the lower of the snaps to the front.
- Attach the upper parts of the snaps to the flap, and the lower parts to the center and side front panels, according to the markings. Attach the upper parts of the snaps to the front flap, and the lower parts to the pocket, according to the markings.
