Insulated Zip-Front Jacket with Shirt Collar and Zipper Pockets
A women's hip-length insulated jacket with a shirt collar, a separating front zipper with an inner zip guard, and side panels at front and back quilted in horizontal channels. Two zipper pockets on the front, full lining.
When To Wear
- In cool autumn and early spring weather, over a sweater or shirt.
- For everyday wear and walks with jeans or trousers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Slightly fitted through the curved seams of the side panels.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: Shirt collar with an upper and under collar, topstitched along the outer edge; the upper collar is insulated.
Closure: Separating zipper at the centre front. An insulated zip guard sits behind the zipper on the left front.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves.
Pockets: Two welt pockets with a non-separating zipper set under the opening, stitched 1 mm from the edge; each has a large and a small pocket bag.
Back: One-piece centre back with side back panels.
Finishing: Back, fronts, sleeves, zip guard and upper collar backed with synthetic batting, stitched along the edges; side panels quilted along the marked lines; front edges and hem topstitched.
Lining: Full lining, with a pleat in the front lining, joined to the sleeve hems and the jacket hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Quilting with batting, welt pockets with zippers, a collar, a separating zipper with a zip guard and a bagged lining turned through a sleeve seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Polyester raincoat or jacket fabrics; lining fabric for the inside.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Synthetic batting (sintepon)
- Fusible interfacing (pocket welts)
- 1 separating zipper, length to match the front
- 2 non-separating zippers, length to match the pocket openings
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Center back - 1 piece
- Front side – 2 pieces
- Back side – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Upper collar - 1 piece
- Lower collar - 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Welt - 2 pieces
- Zipper placket – 1 piece
- Lining:
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back - 1 piece
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Syntepon: Duplicate the back, front panels, sleeves, zipper placket, and upper collar with syntepon, stitching them along the contour.
Sewing Instructions
- Quilt the front and back side panels along the marked lines.
- Zipper pockets. Duplicate the welt with fusible interfacing, fold it in half lengthwise, and press. Place a grain line under the pocket location. Mark a line on the welt to define its finished width. Place the welt on the right side of the front, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the welt. The outer side of the welt should align with the right side of the front. Stitch the welt. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the welt to the wrong side. Press the seam allowances open. Place the zipper under the pocket opening. From the right side of the front, stitch the zipper 0.1cm from the pocket opening. Stitch the small pocket bag to the lower zipper tape and turn it down. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper zipper tape. Stitch the pocket bag edges. The pocket bag edges should be included in the zipper insertion seam and reach the bottom line.
- Garment assembly. Stitch the side panels to the back and front panels. Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Stitch the sleeve seams. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Finish and topstitch the zipper placket. Finish the collar, turn it right side out, and topstitch along the outer edge. Set the collar into the neckline.
- Lining. Stitch the front facing to the front lining, creating a pleat on the lining. Stitch the jacket lining, leaving a technological opening unstitched in one of the sleeve seams for turning.
- Zipper closure. Topstitch the left half of the zipper to the placket. Fold the zipper half with the garment edge right sides together (teeth pointing away from the edge). Finish the garment edges, simultaneously inserting the zipper and the placket. The placket should be on the left front. Turn the garment to the right side.
- Stitch the lining to the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket. Secure the technological opening.
- Topstitch the edges and bottom of the jacket.
- Press the finished jacket.
