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#5215
#5217

Sweetheart Strap Tiered Ruffle Dress

Pattern #5216

A short women's strap dress with a fitted bodice, darted cups and a sweetheart upper edge, joined at an asymmetric diagonal seam to a skirt with three tiers of gathered flounces. The bodice is underlined with organza and closes with a zip in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: light dressy fabrics of natural and blended fibres, such as crêpe de Chine; organza for the bodice underlining.

Tech. Description

Sweetheart Strap Tiered Ruffle Dress

A short women's strap dress with a fitted bodice, darted cups and a sweetheart upper edge, joined at an asymmetric diagonal seam to a skirt with three tiers of gathered flounces. The bodice is underlined with organza and closes with a zip in the left side seam.

When To Wear

  • Summer parties, dances and warm evenings out.
  • On its own with sandals or heels; a light jacket or wrap can go over the straps.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped with darts on the front and back, extended below the waist to a dropped seam that runs diagonally across the body; full, layered skirt below.

Length: Above the knee.

Neckline: Sweetheart upper edge formed by two separate cups with darts, stitched to the front; the back is straight across. The upper edge is finished with a cup facing and a back facing.

Sleeves: Sleeveless, with narrow straps sewn under the corners of the cups at the front and under the upper edge of the back; strap length is adjusted at the fitting.

Closure: Concealed zip in the left side seam, set so that the teeth are not visible; the facing ends are sewn to the zip tape.

Skirt: A lower skirt panel with three gathered flounces: the middle and lower flounces are stitched onto the panel along the markings, and the upper flounce is basted to the upper edge of the panel and stitched into the seam with the bodice.

Finishing: Hems of the flounces and lower skirt overlocked, turned to the wrong side and topstitched; facing trimmed to 2–3 mm and tacked at the side seam and centre lines.

Lining: Bodice underlined with organza (back, cups and front, darts sewn separately), basted to the main fabric and then handled as one layer.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Darted cups set into the front, organza underlining, a concealed side zip, an asymmetric seam and gathered tiers stitched to markings.

Fabric Recommendations

Light dressy fabrics of natural and blended fibres, such as crêpe de Chine; organza for the bodice underlining.

Additional Supplies

  • Organza
  • Fusible interfacing (cups, back facing, cup facing)
  • Zip for the left side seam

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • Cup – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • Lower Skirt – 2 pieces
  • Upper Flounce – 2 pieces
  • Middle Flounce – 2 pieces (each cut on fold)
  • Lower Flounce – 2 pieces (each cut on fold)
  • Back Facing – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • Cup Facing – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • Strap – 2 pieces
  • From organza:
  • Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • Cup – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece (cut on fold)
  • From fusible interfacing: Cup, Back Facing, Cup Facing.

Sewing Instructions

  1. Fuse interfacing to the Cups, the Back Facing and the Cup Facing.
  2. Stitch the darts on the Back, Front and Cups.
  3. Stitch the Cups to the Front.
  4. Stitch the right side seam.
  5. Stitch the darts on the organza Back, Front and Cups. Stitch the Cups to the Front. Stitch the right side seam. Place the organza underlining and the dress wrong sides together and baste along the edges. From now on, treat the bodice as a single layer.
  6. Press the zipper allowances (left side seam) to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening and stitch so that the teeth are not visible.
  7. Stitch the right side seam of the facings. Place the facing on the dress right sides together and stitch along the upper edges. Trim the seam allowances to 2–3 mm from the stitching. Turn the facing to the wrong side, baste and press. Turn under the short ends and sew them to the zipper tape. Tack the facing at the side seam and at the center lines.
  8. Stitch the side seams of the Lower Skirt and of the flounces. Gather the Middle Flounce and Lower Flounce along their upper edges and stitch them to the Lower Skirt along the markings, matching the side seams. Gather the Upper Flounce along the upper edge and baste it to the upper edge of the Lower Skirt. Stitch the skirt to the bodice.
  9. Overlock the hem allowances of the flounces and the Lower Skirt, press them to the wrong side and topstitch.
  10. Fold each Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, baste and press. Sew the front ends under the corners of the Cups. Try on the dress, adjust the length of the straps and sew their back ends under the upper edge of the back.

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Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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