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#5190
#5192

Empire Waist Sleeveless Maxi Dress

Pattern #5191

A floor-length sleeveless women's dress with an empire waist seam that rises to a point at the centre front, a round neckline, a chiffon overlay on the skirt and a zipper in the centre back. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight fabrics in silk or blended fibres: crepe-satin 150 cm wide for the dress, chiffon for the skirt overlay.

Tech. Description

Empire Waist Sleeveless Maxi Dress

A floor-length sleeveless women's dress with an empire waist seam that rises to a point at the centre front, a round neckline, a chiffon overlay on the skirt and a zipper in the centre back. Fully lined.

When To Wear

  • Summer weddings, receptions and formal dinners.
  • Warm-weather evening events, with a wrap or bolero over the bare shoulders.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice, empire waist seam below the bust, A-line skirt widening to the hem.

Length: Floor length.

Neckline: Round neckline, faced with the lining.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with the lining and understitched.

Front: Bodice cut in one piece on the fold, shaped with darts; the waist seam curves up under each bust and meets in a point at the centre front.

Back: Bodice in two pieces with darts; centre back seam from the neckline to the hem.

Closure: Zipper set under the edges of the centre back opening so the teeth are hidden.

Skirt: Front skirt in one piece on the fold, back skirt in two pieces, shaped with darts below the waist seam. A chiffon layer is basted over the main fabric and handled as one layer.

Finishing: Neckline and armhole edges of the lining stabilised with 4 cm strips of fusible interfacing; turned-up hems.

Lining: Full lining for bodice and skirt, sewn by hand to the zipper tapes and hemmed about 2 cm shorter than the dress.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Neckline and armholes lined in one step with the back halves pulled through the shoulders, a skirt layered with chiffon, a pointed waist seam and a hidden zipper.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight fabrics in silk or blended fibres: crepe-satin 150 cm wide for the dress, chiffon for the skirt overlay.

Additional Supplies

  • Chiffon (skirt overlay)
  • Lining fabric
  • Fusible interfacing (4 cm strips for the neckline and armholes of the lining)
  • 1 zipper

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
    1. Back – 2 pieces
    2. Back Skirt – 2 pieces
    3. Front – 1 piece on fold
    4. Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold
  • From chiffon:
    1. Back Skirt – 2 pieces
    2. Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold
  • From lining fabric:
    1. Back – 2 pieces
    2. Back Skirt – 2 pieces
    3. Front – 1 piece on fold
    4. Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold
  • From fusible interfacing: Press 4 cm wide strips of interfacing along the neckline and armhole edges of the lining pieces (cut strips to the shape of the edges and press, aligning the center line of the strip with the marked seam line).

Sewing Instructions

  1. On the main-fabric and lining bodices (Front and Back), stitch the darts and the shoulder seams.
  2. Neckline and armholes: place the lining and the bodice right sides together, pin and stitch along the neckline and armhole edges. Turn the bodice right side out by pulling the back halves through the shoulders to the front. Without breaking the stitching, complete the side seams on the dress and the lining. Press the neckline and armhole seam allowances towards the lining and understitch the lining to the seam allowances close to the seam.
  3. Stitch the darts on the Front Skirt and Back Skirt pieces in main fabric, lining and chiffon. Place the chiffon skirt pieces on the main-fabric skirt pieces, wrong side of chiffon to right side of main fabric, baste along the edges and then handle as a single layer. Stitch the center back seam from the mark downwards and the side seams.
  4. Stitch the main fabric bodice to the main fabric skirt, and the lining bodice to the lining skirt. At the same time, clip the seam allowance along the lower edge of the front (on the bodice and lining bodice) along the center front line. Press the seam allowances towards the bodice/lining.
  5. Stitch the zipper under the edges of the dress opening so that the teeth are not visible, without catching the lining. Fold the lining under and sew it to the zipper tapes.
  6. Hem the dress and the lining with a turned-up hem so that the lining is approx. 2 cm shorter than the dress.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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