Criss-Cross Halter Maxi Dress
A floor-length women's halter dress with a lined bodice, straps cut in one with the front neckline facing that cross into a deep V, a trim band under the bust and a flared skirt with a double inverted pleat at the centre front. The straps fasten at the back neck with two buttons and rouleau loops.
When To Wear
- Evening receptions, summer weddings and formal dinners.
- Warm-weather events: the shoulders are left open.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice, raised waistline, skirt flaring to the floor.
Length: Floor length, the back slightly longer than the front.
Neckline: Halter neckline with a deep V. Straps cut in one with the neckline facing overlap at the centre front.
Sleeves: Sleeveless, armholes faced with the lining.
Front: Bodice fronts shaped with darts; a lower front cut on the fold with a double inverted pleat at the centre.
Back: Interfaced upper back joined to a lower back with a centre seam.
Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam of the skirt; two buttons on the right strap and two rouleau loops on the left strap at the back neck.
Waist: Trim band at the front and back set into the skirt seam and pressed up over it; the shiny side of satin can face out on the trim.
Finishing: Back skirt hem finished with a shaped facing, front hem turned up and blind-stitched.
Lining: Bodice fronts and upper back are lined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Faced straps with rouleau loops, a lined bodice, a set-in trim band, a concealed zipper and a hem facing on soft fabric.
Fabric Recommendations
Soft, well-draping fabrics from natural and blended fibres, such as crepe-satin.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (straps and neckline facings, fronts, upper back, trim bands, back hem facing)
- Zipper
- 2 buttons
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the front neckline facing, cut-on-strap, front, upper back, back trim, front trim, and lower back facing.
- Stitch darts on the front of the main fabric and lining. Stitch side seams of the front and upper back. Place lining and main fabric right sides together and stitch armhole edges and upper back edges. Fold the lining to the wrong side and topstitch onto the seam allowance 1 mm from the seam. Baste the front, back, and lower edges.
- From the bias binding, create a narrow rouleau loop, cut it in half, and shape each piece into a loop.
- Place one strap detail on each front half, right sides facing inward, and stitch according to markings. Press the strap seam allowance towards the strap. Baste the loops to the end of the left strap: the tops of the loops lie on the strap, and the ends on the seam allowance. Place the free straps right sides together with the already attached ones and stitch the neckline and strap edges. Trim seam allowances, clip corners diagonally. Turn straps right side out, baste. Turn under open edges and stitch above the attachment seam.
- Stitch the center seam on the lower back, leaving an opening for the zipper. Stitch the side seams, stopping 10 cm before the hemline. Form and baste a double inverted pleat.
- Stitch the front center and side seams on the decorative trims. When stitching the center seam, do not catch the seam allowances along the upper and lower edges. Place the trim and skirt right sides together and stitch according to markings, with the trim directed downwards! Press the trim upwards. Baste the upper edges of the skirt and trim. Attach the skirt to the bodice of the dress.
- Press the seam allowances for the closure to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening and stitch so that the teeth are not visible, folding under the edges of the tape.
- Stitch the center seam on the lower facings. Place the facing and skirt right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Fold back the facing and topstitch onto the seam allowance, press. Stitch the open sections of the side seams and, without breaking the stitching, stitch the vertical edges of the facing and the hem allowance of the front. Fold the facing and hem allowance to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Sew buttons onto the right strap corresponding to the buttonholes.
