Strappy Cupped Boned Dress

Strappy Cupped Boned Dress

A women's floor-length evening dress on narrow straps, with two-piece shaped cups, a boned inner bodice and princess seams that flare into the skirt through gores. Zip in the centre back seam.

When To Wear

• For a summer wedding, prom or formal evening event.
• On warm evenings with a wrap or bolero over the shoulders.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting through the bodice and waist, widening from the hips into a flared skirt.

Length: Floor length.

Neckline: Shaped cup line at the front, straight across at the back.

Front: Cups of a middle and a side piece. The outer cups are sewn to the dress front, the inner cups to the bodice facing; two rigid corset bones sit in casings stitched along the inner cups.

Back: Middle and side back panels joined by princess seams, with a centre back seam.

Closure: Zip in the centre back seam, set under the folded edges so that the teeth are hidden.

Skirt: Gores set into the princess seams from the notches down, giving the flare at the front and back.

Finishing: Bodice and upper back facings interfaced and sewn to the zip tape; narrow straps turned through, their length adjusted at a fitting before sewing them under the back edge; hem turned twice and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Two-piece cups, boning casings, gores set into princess seams, a concealed-teeth zip and fitting the straps on the body.

Fabric Recommendations

Dressy fabrics of natural and blended fibres that drape well; silk satin 150 cm wide.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (2 middle and 2 side cup pieces, bodice facing, upper back facing)
• Zip
• 2 rigid corset bones

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Strap – 2 pieces
2. Middle Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Back – 2 pieces
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Middle Front – 2 pieces
6. Side Cup – 4 pieces
7. Middle Cup – 4 pieces
8. Gore – 6 pieces
9. Bodice Facing – 2 pieces
10. Upper Back Facing – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Middle Cup – 2 pieces
2. Side Cup – 2 pieces
3. Upper Back Facing – 2 pieces
4. Bodice Facing – 2 pieces

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric, print and lay out the paper patterns according to your fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine required yardage.

Remember to account for paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay close attention to all notches — they must match precisely to ensure correct construction and fit.

Careful pressing and accurate seam alignment are essential when working with satin fabrics to achieve a professional eveningwear finish.

Assembly Instructions

1. Fuse fusible interfacing to 2 pieces each of the middle and side cup parts, the upper back facing, and the bodice facing.
2. Attach the gores to the princess seams from the notches downwards. Stitch the princess seams.
3. Stitch the cup pieces in pairs. Attach the outer pair of cups to the dress front panel, and the inner pair to the bodice facing. On the inner cups, along the seam where they are attached to the bodice facing, sew decorative stitches to form casings for the boning. Insert the boning into the casings and stitch the edges of the casings.
4. Stitch the side seams and the middle back panel seam from the notch downwards.
5. Press the seam allowances for the zipper opening to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening and stitch so that the teeth are not visible.
6. Stitch the side seams on the facings. Place the facings with the dress right sides together and stitch the upper edges. Trim the seam allowances to 2-3 mm from the stitching line. Turn the facing to the wrong side, baste, and press. Fold the short sides and sew them to the zipper tape. Secure the facing above the side seam and above the center lines.
7. Fold the straps in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, baste, and press. Sew the front ends under the corners of the cups. Try on the dress, adjust the length of the straps, and sew their back ends under the top edge of the back.
8. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, fold the raw edge inwards, and topstitch.