Collared Princess Seam Dress

Name: Collared Princess Seam Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5188
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5188

A women's off-the-shoulder dress with a wide collar in contrast fabric lying across the shoulders, front princess seams, a dropped waist seam that dips to a point at the centre front and a full flared skirt. Fully lined, with a zipper in the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: well-draping fabrics in natural and blended fibres, such as crepe-satin 150 cm wide, with a contrast fabric for the collar.

Tech. Description

Collared Princess Seam Dress

When To Wear

Evening receptions, weddings and formal dinners.
Cocktail and theatre evenings, with a bolero or wrap in cooler weather.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice to below the waist, full flared skirt.

Length: Below the knee.

Collar: Wide off-the-shoulder collar cut in four pieces from contrast fabric, stitched in pairs and turned. It runs around the back and over the shoulders; at the front its free lower ends are caught into the princess seams, and its corners are tacked together near the centre front.

Sleeves: None; the shoulders are bare under the collar.

Front: Centre front panel cut on the fold, with side front panels joined by princess seams.

Back: Two back pieces shaped with darts; centre back seam through bodice and skirt.

Closure: Zipper in the centre back seam of the bodice, set under the pressed-back seam allowances.

Waist: Dropped waist seam at hip level, shaped to a point at the centre front.

Skirt: Front skirt in one piece on the fold, back skirt in two pieces with a centre back seam.

Lining: Full lining for bodice and skirt; the top edge is faced with the lining and understitched 1–2 mm from the seam. The lining is hemmed 2 cm shorter than the skirt.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A four-piece collar sewn into the princess seams, a lined off-the-shoulder top edge, matching the collar seam to the centre back zipper and a shaped waist seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Well-draping fabrics in natural and blended fibres, such as crepe-satin 150 cm wide, with a contrast fabric for the collar.

Additional Supplies

Contrast fabric (collar)
Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing
1 zipper

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Front – 1 piece on fold
Back Skirt – 2 pieces
Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold

From contrast fabric:

Collar – 4 pieces

From lining fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Front – 1 piece on fold
Back Skirt – 2 pieces
Front Skirt – 1 piece on fold

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the darts on the Back pieces from main and lining fabric.
Place the Collar pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch along the upper, front, lower, and inner (from notch to back center seam) edges. Clip the seam allowance at the notch and turn the collar right side out.
Stitch the front princess seams (Front to Side Front) in the main fabric, inserting the free lower edges of the collar into the seams. Stitch the front princess seams in the lining.
Stitch the side seams of the main-fabric and lining bodices.
Place the lining and the main bodice right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Fold the lining to the inside and understitch it to the seam allowances 1–2 mm from the seam.
Align the center seam of the collar with the center back edge of the back to form a straight line and secure with a few stitches. Press the center back seam allowances to the wrong side, place the zipper underneath and stitch it in.
Stitch the side seams and center back seam of the main-fabric and lining skirts. Stitch the main skirt to the main bodice and the lining skirt to the lining bodice. Press the seam allowances open and tack them together.
Hem the dress and the lining with a turned-up hem so that the lining is 2 cm shorter than the skirt. Secure the front seams near the notch and the collar corners with a few stitches.