Short Sleeve Collared Front Pleat Dress
A women's short-sleeved button-front dress in denim with a turn-down collar, diagonal bust darts, stitched-down vertical pleats at the waist on the front and back, and side slits. Above-knee length.
When To Wear
- In spring and summer as a daytime dress with flat shoes or sneakers.
- Worn open over a T-shirt and trousers as a light top layer.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped at the waist by the stitched pleats, widening slightly towards the hem.
Length: Above the knee.
Collar: One-piece turn-down collar without a stand, each collar piece cut on the fold; the upper collar is cut slightly longer so it rolls over the under collar. Topstitched along the edge and 0.5 cm in.
Closure: Button front with cut-on facings and bound buttonholes on the right front; the drawing shows six buttons.
Front: Diagonal bust darts from the side seams; two vertical pleats at the waist, pressed towards the centre front, topstitched along the edge and 0.5 cm in and stitched across at both ends.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with a topstitched hem.
Back: Centre back seam and two vertical waist pleats matching the front, pressed towards the centre back.
Finishing: Side slits; hem and slit edges topstitched 1.2 cm from the edge, with mitred corners; front edges and collar seam edge-stitched; back neckline facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Topstitched pleats placed exactly to the markings, a collar set between the dress and the facings, bound buttonholes, mitred slit corners.
Fabric Recommendations
Denim.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (cut-on front facings, back neckline facing, upper collar)
- Buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front (with cut-on facing) - 2 pieces
- Back - 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
- Turn-Down Collar - 2 pieces, each on fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the cut-on front facings, the back neckline facing and one collar piece (= upper collar).
Sewing Instructions
Fusible interfacing: reinforce the cut-on front facings, the back neckline facing and one collar piece (= upper collar) with fusible interfacing.
- On the fronts, stitch the darts diagonally, tapering them to nothing. Tie off thread ends at dart points. Press dart depths downwards.
- On the fronts and backs, pin the pleats on the wrong side, precisely matching the markings. Stitch between the crosswise notches. Press the pleats towards the center front / center back, topstitch on the right side close to the edge and at a distance of 0.5 cm. At the upper and lower ends of the pleats, stitch across.
- Stitch the center back seam and the side seams above the slit notches; stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances open.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together, slightly curve the outer edges outwards and pin; this gives the upper collar extra length so that it lies better on the finished garment. Stitch along the outer contour, leave the collar attachment seam open. Trim seam allowances to a width of 0.5 cm, trim diagonally at the corners. Turn the collar right side out, carefully pulling out the collar corners with a needle. Topstitch the collar along the outer edge close to the edge and at a distance of 0.5 cm, catching the under collar. Baste the open edges of the collar, attach to the neckline from the right side. The crosswise notch matches the shoulder seam, and the front ends of the collar lie on the center front line.
- Front edges and neckline: Stitch the back neckline facing to the cut-on front facings, right sides together. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the facings to the neckline, right sides together, over the collar; the shoulder seams of the dress and of the facings must match exactly. Trim the attachment seam allowances to a width of 0.5 cm. Turn the facings to the wrong side. Baste the front edges and neckline.
- Bottom edge and side slits: Press the hem seam allowances to the wrong side first, then the seam allowances along the side slits. At the corners of the bottom edge, fold the seam allowances along the slits diagonally. Topstitch the bottom edge and slit edges from the right side at a distance of 1.2 cm. Topstitch the front edges and the collar attachment seam from the right side close to the edge. Hand stitch the facings to the hem seam allowances and shoulder seam seam allowances.
- Stitch the sleeve seams. Press seam allowances open. Press the sleeve hem seam allowances to the wrong side, topstitch from the right side.
- Set in sleeves: Pin the sleeves into the armholes right sides together, matching the alignment notches. Baste and stitch with the sleeve on top. Join and overlock the seam allowances.
- Make bound buttonholes along the right front. Sew buttons to the left front along the center front line.
