Fitted Zippered Jacket with Zippered Pockets
A women's fitted, collarless, fully lined jacket with a centre front zipper, princess seams front and back, zippered welt pockets on the fronts and two-piece sleeves with a zipper in the lower elbow seam.
When To Wear
- Office wear in autumn and spring, with a matching straight skirt or trousers.
- Over a thin top or blouse; the round neckline leaves room for a necklace.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams and front darts.
Length: Hip length.
Neckline: Round, collarless, finished with the front facings and a back neck facing.
Closure: Zipper from hem to neckline, set between the fronts and the front facings.
Pockets: Welt pockets with zippers below the waist on both fronts, the frame topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Two-piece, set-in with eased caps; the elbow seam is left open at the hem for a zipper, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.
Lining: Full lining, sewn to the facings and slip-stitched to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Five zippers: zippered welt pockets cut open on the front, zippers in the sleeve seams and the front closure set into the facing seam, plus two-piece sleeves and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight wool or wool-blend suiting or coating with enough body to hold the princess seams and zippered pockets.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
- Front zipper
- 2 zippers for the pockets
- 2 zippers for the sleeves
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lining:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag Lining – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front) and the darts on the fronts.
- Welt pocket with zipper. Place the Pocket Bag Lining pieces on the front, right sides together, at the marked pocket opening line and stitch along the marked lines.
- Cut the front lengthwise between the stitching lines, cutting diagonally into the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to cut the stitches! Press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the Pocket Bag Lining pieces through the opening to the wrong side, wrapping them around the seam allowances, and baste. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side.
- Place the zipper under the pocket opening and baste. Topstitch around the edge of the frame 0.5 cm from the edge, attaching the zipper at the same time.
- Stitch the pocket bag seam, catching the corners (triangles) of the seam allowances.
- Sew the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), the side seams and the shoulder seams. When sewing the side seams, do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags.
- Two-piece sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve), leaving the elbow seam open at the lower end for the length of the zipper. Place the zipper under the opening from the wrong side and baste. Topstitch along the edge of the opening 0.5 cm from the edge, attaching the zipper at the same time. Hem the sleeve.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the upper ends of the Center Front Facings. Place the Center Front Facings on the fronts, right sides together, with the zipper between them, teeth facing inwards, and stitch along the front edges and the neckline, joining the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing to the jacket.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side and press the edges.
- Stitch the seams of the lining (Front, Back, Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve). Stitch the front edges of the lining to the Center Front Facings, right sides together, starting and ending the seam about 8 cm from the lower edge.
- Pull the lining into the jacket, wrong sides together. Turn under the open edges of the lining and sew them by hand to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves. Sew the remaining open front edges of the lining to the Center Front Facings.
