Wrap Blouse with Notched Lapels
A women's hip-length wrap blouse with a notched collar and lapels, fastened by a tie at the side and an inner ribbon tie. The lower edge is finished with a folded hem band joined to the front facings, and the long sleeves have bound openings, pleats and cuffs.
When To Wear
- Over straight or slim trousers in place of a light jacket, as in the drawing.
- For the office and daytime events in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by darts, wrapped left over right.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; the under collar is set into the neckline, the upper collar is joined to the interfaced front facings. The front edges are turned back as lapels and pressed lightly.
Closure: Two ties: one caught in the left side seam, the other attached to the front edge of the right front and lying on it. Inside, a ribbon on the left front edge ties to a ribbon sewn to the right side seam allowance at the same height.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a wrist opening bound with a bias strip (0.5 cm finished binding) and pleats at the lower edge.
Cuffs: Straight cuffs folded in half, interfaced, each with 2 buttonholes 1 cm from the front short end.
Back: One piece cut on the fold.
Finishing: Hem facing cut on the fold and folded in half, stitched to the lower edge of the blouse to form a band; the front facings are joined to its inner edge, and the inner half is stitched in the ditch from the right side. Side and sleeve seams stitched in one.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A notched collar stitched to a marking, front facings joined to a folded hem band, ties caught in the seams, bound sleeve openings with pleats and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Fluid blouse fabrics with some body: viscose, crepe, silk or cotton blends.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, collar, cuffs)
- Narrow tape or ribbon for the inner tie, cut into 2 equal parts
- 4 buttons for the cuffs
Cutter's Must
- Main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hem Facing – 1 piece on fold
- Collar – 2 pieces on fold
- Tie – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Additional:
- 2 bias strips for binding the sleeve slits, each 16 cm long and 2 cm wide.
- Fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece on fold
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts and the shoulder seams.
- Cut the sleeve slits along the markings. Bind each slit with a bias strip, finished width 0.5 cm. At the top of the slit (on the wrong side of the sleeve), stitch the binding diagonally.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes.
- Place the Tie pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch along the long sides; turn right side out and tuck the open end of each tie inwards. Baste one tie between the markings to the side edge of the left front, and the other to the front edge of the right front, lying on the front.
- Cut the ribbon or tape into 2 equal parts. Baste one ribbon to the right side of the front edge of the left front.
- Stitch the sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous seam, catching the tie in the left side seam.
- Stitch the under Collar to the neckline up to the marking. Stitch the upper Collar to the Center Front Facings. Press the seam allowances open; between the shoulder seams press them towards the collar.
- Fold the Hem Facing wrong sides together along the fold marking and press the fold. Stitch one (outer) long edge of the Hem Facing to the lower edge of the blouse, and the lower edges of the Center Front Facings to the inner long edge of the Hem Facing.
- Turn the inner half of the Hem Facing to the right side and place the Center Front Facings and upper Collar on the blouse, right sides together. Stitch the front edges and the outer edges of the collar up to the marking, catching the tie at the left edge.
- Turn the Center Front Facings and the inner half of the Hem Facing to the wrong side, turn the collar right side out. Turn under the lower edge of the upper Collar and stitch it over the seam. Sew the upper edges of the Center Front Facings to the shoulder seam allowances.
- Turn under the open edge of the inner half of the Hem Facing and pin it over the seam; from the right side, stitch along the seam to secure it.
- At the lower edge of the sleeves, lay the pleats, matching mark x to mark o, and baste them.
- Fold each Cuff in half right sides together and stitch the short sides; turn right side out. Stitch one long edge of the Cuff to the right side of the sleeve lower edge, catching the binding of the front slit edge turned to the wrong side. Turn under the inner half of the Cuff and stitch it over the seam.
- On the cuffs, make 2 buttonholes, 1 cm from the edge of the front short side.
- Sew the second ribbon to the right side seam allowances at the height of the ribbon of the left front edge.
- Turn the front edges back as lapels and press lightly.
