Three-Button Tailored Jacket
A women's single-breasted hip-length jacket with a notched collar, a three-button front, front and back princess seams and single-welt pockets. Two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents; fully lined.
When To Wear
- As a suit jacket with a matching short skirt, as in the drawing, or with trousers.
- For the office and business meetings in spring, autumn and winter.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and by darts on the fronts.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar and lapels; the collar is set between the jacket and the interfaced front facings and back neckline facing, with the under collar in the jacket neckline.
Front: Single-breasted, three buttons, buttonholes along the right front edge.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets with interfaced welts and lining pocket bags; a breast welt pocket is shown on the drawing.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps and a vent with a cut-on facing and underlap, closed with small buttons. A strip of wadding about 4 cm wide is sewn along each sleeve cap.
Back: Centre back seam and back princess seams.
Lining: Full lining cut from the front, side front, back, side back and sleeve pieces, sewn to the facings and to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, a notched collar set between jacket and facings, two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents, a bagged-in lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight suiting with body: wool and wool blends, gabardine, tweed, linen blends.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, collar, welts)
- 3 buttons for the front
- Small buttons for the sleeve vents
- Wadding (fleece) strip about 4 cm wide for the sleeve caps
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Front - 2 pieces
- Side Front - 2 pieces
- Center Back - 2 pieces
- Side Back - 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Front - 2 pieces
- Side Front - 2 pieces
- Center Back - 2 pieces
- Side Back - 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Upper Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
- Lower Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Sew the front princess seams and the darts on the fronts.
- Single-welt pocket: stitch the side edges of the off-set welt. Trim the seam allowance corners at 45 degrees. Turn the welt right side out and press. Place the welt and the pocket bags on the front right sides together (the upper pocket bag above; the welt and the lower pocket bag below), pin along the marked pocket opening and stitch along the marked stitching lines, with the long raw edges of the welt exactly on the pocket opening line. Cut the front between the stitching lines, and diagonally into the corners at the front ends. Take care not to cut the stitching. Press the seam allowances open flat. Turn the welt and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side, wrapping them around the seam allowances, and baste. Fold the small triangle at the front end of the opening to the wrong side and stitch down the ends of the welt. Secure the corners from the wrong side with short bar tacks. Sew the pocket bags together, catching the seam allowance corners.
- Sew the back princess seams, the side and shoulder seams. Do not catch the side edges of the pocket bags in the side seams.
- Two-piece sleeves: sew the sleeve seam. Hem the sleeve. Press the vent edges. On the wrong side of the sleeve, stitch the long edges and short upper edges of the cut-on vent facing and vent underlap. Sew small buttons onto the sleeve, catching the underlap.
- Set in the sleeves, easing the sleeve caps. Sew a strip of wadding about 4 cm wide to the armhole seam allowances along each sleeve cap.
- Stitch the two collar pieces together along the outer edge, turn out and baste the open edges together into the neckline.
- Place the center front facings on the fronts right sides together and stitch along the front edges and lapels up to the collar point. Clip the seam allowance at this point. Sew the back neckline facing to the upper ends of the center front facings.
- Place the collar with its open edges between the jacket and the facings, with the under collar lying on the jacket. Sew the upper collar to the neckline of the facings, and the under collar into the jacket neckline. Clip the seam allowances on the curves repeatedly. Press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the facings to the wrong side and press the edges. On the inside, stitch together the collar seam allowances around the back neckline. Fold the center front facings back to the right side. Turn the hem allowance to the wrong side up to the front edges and sew in place. Turn the facings to the wrong side again and sew them to the hem allowance.
- Sew the lining seams. Sew the front edges of the lining to the center front facings right sides together, starting and ending the seam about 8 cm from the lower edge. Pull the lining into the jacket, wrong sides together. Turn under the open edges of the lining and sew them to the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves. Sew the remaining open front edges of the lining to the facings.
- Make bound (piped) buttonholes along the marked line on the right front. Sew on the buttons.
