Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 10 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm; top pocket allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can range from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back piece - 1 piece
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front piece - 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, overcast the allowances and press towards the center. Attach the back yoke to the back. Press the allowance towards the yoke and overcast. Overcast the bottom edge of the back. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Overcast the top edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch along the side edges. Fold the side allowances inwards and press. Place the pocket on the front piece according to the markings and topstitch. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Turn the flap right side out and press. Place the flap right side down on the front insert (the bottom edge of the flap pointing away from the edge) and secure along the princess seam. Stitch the front princess seam. Overcast the allowance and press towards the center.
- Attach the yoke to the front piece. Overcast the allowance and press towards the yoke. Overcast the bottom edge of the front piece. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the plackets lengthwise, right side out, and press. On the right placket, overcast the buttonholes. Attach the plackets to the right side of the front piece along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Clip the front piece allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching line. Tuck the ends of the plackets inwards and stitch, securing the bottom edge. Overcast the allowances.
- Fold the upper collar and undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline. Fold the allowance of the lower collar stand inwards and stitch into the seam.
- Fold the tabs lengthwise in the middle, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at the corners, shape and press. Overcast the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs to the wrong side of the sleeves according to the markings.
- Stitch the sleeve seams, press towards the back and overcast. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and overcast.
- Overcast the sleeve hem, fold inwards and topstitch.
- On the left front piece - sew on buttons. Overcast buttonholes on the tabs, collar stand, and flap. Sew on buttons on the sleeves, collar stand, flap, and placket.
