Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, 8 buttons, buckle.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance — 2.0 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part — 2 pieces
- Upper front part — 2 pieces
- Lower front part — 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center seam on the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances to the left and overcast.
- Form and secure pleats on the lower back piece (pleat depths directed away from the center). Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch darts on the upper front pieces. Press waist dart allowances towards the center, bust darts upwards. Form and secure pleats on the lower front piece (pleat depths directed away from the center). Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Overcast the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the front edge seam allowance: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn front edges right side out, shape seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the back facing and front facing neckline. Clip collar attachment seam allowances, press open and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and overcast.
- Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the ends from the fold to the mark. Trim allowances at the corner, clip at the mark. Form the cuff into a loop and stitch the sections from the mark to the lower edge. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, press. Attach the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve, matching the cuff seam with the mark on the sleeve, and stitch. Press allowances and overcast. Turn the cuff to the right side.
- Overcast the lower edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the right front, overcast buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, shape, press. Overcast the short side. Topstitch around the perimeter at 0.1 cm. Thread and secure the buckle on the overcast side of the belt. Punch holes.
