Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: soft dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the dress bottom and sleeve hem – 3.0 cm. Allowance for the back neckline, upper front part, and front neckline facing – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Flying panel - 1 piece
- Belt - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch shoulder and waist darts on the back, press dart allowances towards the center. On both back pieces, fuse interfacing to the vent from the wrong side. Overlock the center back seam separately on each piece. Overlock the vent allowances. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (1 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch bust darts on the upper front part, press dart allowances upwards.
- Overlock the outer edge of the front neckline facing. Place the facing on the main piece, right sides together, and stitch the neckline. Trim allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
- Overlock the outer and lower edges of the flying panel, press to the wrong side, and topstitch. Form and secure pleats on the flying panel (pleat depths directed towards the left side seam). Place the flying panel wrong side onto the right side of the lower front part, secure along the edges, and treat as one piece thereafter.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Fold the belt pieces right sides together and stitch the long edges. Turn to the right side, straighten, and press. Form and secure pleats on the belt (pleat depths directed downwards), overlock the short edge. Place the belt on the front part, secure at the right side seam. Tuck the short edge of the belt under the pleat of the flying panel and hand stitch.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Unfold the piece, fold the long edges towards the center, and press again. Bind the neckline edge with the bias strip.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and overlock. Set the sleeve into the armhole, matching notches, press allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
