Fitted Collarless Blazer with Angular Hem

Name: Fitted Collarless Blazer with Angular Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4983
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4983

A fitted, fully lined women's jacket with a collarless open front, princess seams front and back and a lower front band joined at the waist with pointed front corners. In-seam pockets sit in the front waist seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Collarless Blazer

When To Wear

To the office, worn open over a blouse or fine knit with trousers or a pencil skirt.
Over a sheath dress for daytime events in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted to the waist, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Short, ending at the high hip.

Neckline: Collarless, with front edges running in a V from the shoulder; finished by the front facings and a back neck facing, with stay tape along the back neckline.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve), cap eased into the armhole.

Front: Edge to edge, with no fastening. Below the waist seam a separate lower front band ends in a point at the front edge.

Pockets: In-seam pockets in the front waist seam, with two-piece pocket bags.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; the hem opens into a small inverted V at the centre back.

Finishing: Thin shoulder pads; hem and sleeve allowances 3 cm.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve seam and tacked at the front waist seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. In-seam pockets set into a waist seam, two-piece sleeves with an eased cap and a bagged full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing) and fusible stay tape for the back neckline
Lining fabric
Thin shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem of garment and sleeve 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
From lining fabric (the back lining pieces are cut from the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing):
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front, Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the back neckline, apply an additional fusible stay tape.
Stitch the front princess seam (Center Front to Side Front). Press the seam allowances open. Attach a Pocket Bag piece to the lower edge of the front, starting and ending exactly at the marked attachment line. Press the seam allowances upwards. Attach the second Pocket Bag piece to the Lower Front, starting and ending exactly at the marked attachment line. Join the Lower Front to the front in two sections: from the front edge to the pocket and from the pocket to the side seam. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the pocket bag pieces together. Press.
Stitch and press open the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back). Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam allowance open.
Stitch the jacket shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the jacket side seams. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve). Press the elbow seam open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing in the upper part of the sleeve cap. Attach the shoulder pads.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams joining the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings. Stitch the lining pieces in the same way as the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the elbow seam of the left sleeve. Attach the lining to the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings.
Place the jacket and lining right sides together, pin, aligning outer edges. Stitch the faced lining to the jacket along the front edges and neckline. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the lining to the main fabric at the front waist seam. Sew the opening closed.