Rounded Collar Double-Breasted Jacket

Name: Rounded Collar Double-Breasted Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4982
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4982

A women's short lined jacket with a double-breasted front, a flat collar with rounded ends, a horizontal seam below the waist with pockets hidden under flaps cut in one with the upper front, and two-piece set-in sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Rounded Collar Double-Breasted Jacket

When To Wear

To the office in spring and autumn, with a straight skirt or slim trousers.
Over a dress or a thin blouse as a light outer layer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by bust darts, front panel seams and a horizontal seam below the waist.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Two-piece flat collar with rounded ends, set between the jacket and the facings.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam and an eased sleeve cap; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Closure: Double-breasted, buttonholes on the right front and buttons on the left front.

Front: Upper front in a centre and a side part, joined to a lower front panel.

Pockets: In-seam pockets in the seam between the upper and lower front, covered by wide flaps cut in one with the upper front and lined.

Back: Upper back with a centre back seam; lower back cut in one piece on the fold.

Finishing: Front edges understitched to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam; hem and sleeve hem allowances 3 cm, interfaced.

Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Cut-on flaps over in-seam pockets, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, a collar set between the jacket and the facings, and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, collar, front facings, back neck facing, hem allowances, flaps)
6 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem and garment hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Front lining - 2 pieces
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
Lining pieces for the upper back parts are cut deducting the width of the neckline facing.
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also fuse the allowances of the garment hem, sleeve hem, and one-piece flaps.
Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards.
Place the flap lining with the main piece right sides together and stitch along the contour. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked seam allowance line of the upper edge of the flap lining. Clip allowances at curves and notches, turn the flap right side out, straighten, and press.
Stitch bust darts, press depths upwards. Stitch the center and side front parts, press allowances towards the center.
Attach the lower front to the upper, leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Clip allowances at notches and press upwards. Place the lower pocket bag on the lower front and stitch the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side. Attach the upper pocket bag to the flap lining. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start stitching exactly at the marked seam line for collar attachment. Clip allowances at curves, turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
Place the front facing with the front piece right sides together and stitch the lower corner, front edge, and neckline edge up to the notch. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge from bottom to neckline onto the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Clip the allowance at the neckline near the notch. Turn the front edge to the right side, straighten the seams. Attach the upper collar to the back neckline and front pieces, press allowances open. Attach the lower collar to the facing neckline and front facing, press allowances open.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set in sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
Attach the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.