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#4983
#4985

Collarless A-Line Seamed Coat

Pattern #4984

A women's collarless coat with a round neckline, a horizontal seam at the waist, flaps set into that seam and a front hem that slopes to a point at the centre front. Made from non-fraying fabric: seams are lapped and topstitched from the right side, and edges are left without hems. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: non-fraying coat fabrics in natural or blended fibres, neoprene, felt.

Tech. Description

Collarless Seamed Coat

A women's collarless coat with a round neckline, a horizontal seam at the waist, flaps set into that seam and a front hem that slopes to a point at the centre front. Made from non-fraying fabric: seams are lapped and topstitched from the right side, and edges are left without hems.

When To Wear

  • As a light outer layer in spring and autumn, over knit tops, shirts and dresses.
  • With slim trousers or a narrow skirt, which show off the angled front hem.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight upper body joined to a slightly flared lower part at a horizontal waist seam, front and back.

Length: Below the hip; the front is longer than the back.

Neckline: Round, collarless, with an unhemmed edge.

Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves in two parts (front and back) with a lapped, topstitched seam and an elbow seam. Alternative version: one-piece sleeves in knit fabric with a 3 cm hem stitched with an elastic stitch.

Closure: Overlapping front edges with three snap fasteners.

Pockets: Two decorative flaps with a pointed lower edge, caught into the waist seam on the lower front.

Back: Centre back seam and waist seam, both lapped and topstitched; straight, shorter hem.

Finishing: Lapped seams topstitched from the right side; the side seam of the lower part is shifted towards the front. Front edges, neckline and hem are overlocked in one continuous pass with no hem allowance.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Lapped seams matched along marked stitching lines, a horizontal waist seam joining the upper and lower parts, and a two-part sleeve with a lapped seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Non-fraying coat fabrics in natural or blended fibres, neoprene, felt. For the knit-sleeve version, a knit fabric for the sleeves.

Additional Supplies

  • 3 snap fasteners
  • Knit fabric for the sleeves (knit-sleeve version)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for coat bottom and fabric sleeve – 0 cm; bottom allowance for knit sleeve – 3 cm; outer allowances for neckline and front edge – 0 cm; bottom allowance for flap – 0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

  • From main fabric:
    • Upper back - 2 pieces
    • Upper front - 2 pieces
    • Lower back – 2 pieces
    • Lower front – 2 pieces
    • Front sleeve — 2 pieces
    • Back sleeve – 2 pieces
    • Flap – 2 pieces
  • If the model has knit sleeves:
    • From knit fabric:
      • Sleeve – 2 pieces.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

  1. Overlock the center edges of the upper back parts. Overlap the left back onto the right back, aligning the marked stitching seams, and topstitch from the right side. Process the lower back similarly.
  2. Stitch the side and shoulder edges of the upper parts. Overlock and press open the allowances.
  3. Overlock the front edges of the sleeves. Overlap the upper sleeve onto the lower, aligning the marked stitching seams, and topstitch from the right side. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Overlock and press open the allowances. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Overlock and press the allowances.
  4. Overlock the bottom and side edges of the flaps. Place the flaps onto the lower front and secure along the upper edge.
  5. Overlock the side edges of the lower parts. Overlap the lower back onto the lower front, aligning the marked stitching seams, and topstitch from the right side.
  6. Overlock the bottom edge of the upper parts. Overlock the upper allowance of the lower coat parts. Overlap the upper onto the lower, aligning the marked stitching seams, and topstitch from the right side. Attention! The side allowance of the lower is shifted towards the front.
  7. Overlock the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the coat in one continuous stitch. Overlock the sleeve hem.
  8. Sew on snap fasteners.
  9. With knit sleeve:
    1. Overlock the center edges of the upper back parts. Overlap the left back onto the right back, aligning the marked stitching seams, and topstitch from the right side. Process the lower back similarly.
    2. Stitch the side and shoulder edges of the upper parts. Overlock and press open the allowances.
    3. Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock and press open the allowances. Set the sleeves into the armholes, overlock and press the allowances.
    4. Overlock the bottom and side edges of the flaps. Place the flaps onto the lower front and secure along the upper edge.
    5. Overlock the side edges of the lower parts. Overlap the lower back onto the lower front, aligning the marked stitching seams, and topstitch from the right side.
    6. Overlock the bottom edge of the upper parts. Overlock the upper allowance of the lower coat parts. Overlap the upper onto the lower, aligning the marked stitching seams, and topstitch from the right side. Attention! The side allowance of the lower is shifted towards the front.
    7. Overlock the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the coat in one continuous stitch.
    8. Overlock the sleeve hem. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch with an elastic stitch.
    9. Sew on snap fasteners.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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