Asymmetrical Zipper Jacket

Name: Asymmetrical Zipper Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4963
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4963

A women's unlined jacket in thick double-faced fabric with an off-centre separating zip set into the left princess seam, a wide one-piece collar, double-welt pockets and a hip band. Seams are topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam line. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thick double-faced fabrics with a slight pile, of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Asymmetrical Zipper Jacket

When To Wear

As a warm outer layer in autumn and spring, over a jumper or shirt.
With jeans or trousers for everyday wear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by front princess seams.

Length: Hip length, finished with a separate band at the hem.

Collar: Wide one-piece collar, its edge pressed under and held with a narrow zigzag; set wrong sides together so the reverse of the fabric shows, with the neckline seam covered by bias tape.

Closure: Asymmetric separating zip: one half sits in the left princess seam, the other along the right front edge, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Front: Centre and side front panels, with yokes on the side fronts topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.

Pockets: Slanted double-welt pockets on the lower fronts, with pocket bags in lining fabric.

Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves; the hem is turned to the right side and held with a narrow zigzag, so the reverse of the fabric shows as a cuff.

Back: Centre back seam and a back yoke topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.

Finishing: Unlined; seams overlocked, hem band topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam and hem topstitched 1.5 cm from the edge.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Double-welt pockets, a zip set into a princess seam, and neat seam finishes on a jacket without lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Thick double-faced fabrics with a slight pile, of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

1 separating zip
Bias tape
Lining fabric for the pocket bags

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment, sleeve hem, collar edge – 2 cm, outer edge of the front opening – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Bottom band – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 4 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the center back seams, overlock and press open the allowances. Attach the back yoke. Overlock the allowance and press it towards the yoke. Topstitch from the right side 0.5 cm from the seam.
Attach the yoke to the side front, press allowances towards the yoke, overlock. Topstitch from the right side 0.5 cm from the seam.
Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Fold the pocket frames in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket frame for attaching it parallel to the fold. Attach the large pocket bag to the upper frame. Attach the frames to the front. Cut the front along the line marked on the pattern. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frames through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the pressed folds of the frames meet flush. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Attach the small pocket bag to the seam of the lower frame. Stitch and overlock the upper edges of the pocket bags. Stitch and overlock the upper and side edges of the pocket bags. Secure the lower and center allowances to the main garment piece, then treat as one piece.
Stitch the side seams, press open and overlock the allowances. Attach the bottom band to the jacket. Overlock the allowance and press it upwards. Topstitch from the right side 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch the right princess seams of the front, overlock and press allowances towards the side seam. Overlock the allowances of the left princess seam separately, insert the left of the zipper from the bottom to the large mark and stitch. Press allowances towards the side seam, topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch the side seams, press open and overlock the allowances.
Overlock the left edge of the front opening. Attach the right of the zipper to the edge of the front opening of the right front piece, teeth facing away from the edge. Press allowances to the wrong side and topstitch along the front opening 0.5 cm. Trim the allowance of the left front opening to 1 cm, overlock. Turn the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch 1.5 cm from the edge.
Press the collar edge allowance to the wrong side and secure with a narrow zigzag stitch. Fold the collar and jacket with wrong sides together and attach the collar to the neckline. Smooth out the collar. Direct the allowance downwards. Place bias tape over the seam, covering it, and topstitch.
Stitch the sleeve seam, overlock and press open the allowances. Press the sleeve hem to the right side. Secure the hem allowance on the right side with a thin zigzag stitch. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
Overlock and press up the bottom hem of the garment. Topstitch 1.5 cm from the edge.