Fitted Zip-Front Collarless Jacket

Name: Fitted Zip-Front Collarless Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4775
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4775

A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with a collarless round neckline, a separating zip at the centre front set between placket strips, princess seams front and back and a horizontal zip in each front side panel. Three-quarter sleeves, fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Zip-Front Jacket

When To Wear

As an office jacket with a pencil skirt or straight trousers.
In spring and autumn over a thin top or a sheath dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Round, collarless, with front and back neckline facings that show as a band on the outside.

Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, set between interfaced front plackets, with the edges folded under along the zip.

Front: Side front panels split into upper and lower parts, with a horizontal zip stitched into the seam between them on each side.

Sleeves: Three-quarter length set-in sleeves with an eased cap and shoulder pads.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: 3 cm hem allowance on the jacket and sleeves.

Lining: Full lining with sleeves; the inner neckline facings and inner front plackets are sewn to the lining, which is stitched to the front edges, neckline and hems.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Three zips (one separating), front plackets, princess seams with a split side panel, sleeves with shoulder pads and a full bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front plackets, neckline facings)
1 separating zip
2 zips for the front side panels
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, then the patterns include seam allowances. If the contour is single, then the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3.0 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Front placket – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the back neckline facing to the back, press allowances towards the facing.
Attach the zipper to the upper and lower side front parts. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Attach the front neckline facing to the front, press allowances towards the facing. Attach the front placket to the front.
Place front pieces right sides together and align edges, measuring the length of the front edges. Attach the zipper to the front edge. Fold under the front edges in the zipper area and press.
Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances open.
Stitch and press open the sleeve elbow seam, easing the upper of the sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Fold back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
Stitch shoulder seams of inner neckline facings, press allowances open. On lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach facing to lining neckline. Attach inner front placket to lining.
Place lining on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch the front edges and neckline. Stitching is done from the front piece side.
Attach lining to the bottom of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.