Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; zipper. For finishing: LACE TRIM 1.5-2 cm wide is needed to cover seams. Also, SATIN BIAS BINDING is needed for the "BONING".

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Back waistband – 2 pieces
  • Outer waistband – 1 piece
  • Inner waistband – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Note: markings on patterns are made on the right side.

1. Fuse interfacing to the front facing pieces.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces, press depths towards the center. Stitch darts on front pieces, press depths away from the center. Lay and secure pleats on front pieces.
3. Fold back waistband pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper and lower edges. Turn the piece right side out and press. Fold outer and inner waistband pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper and lower edges. Turn the piece right side out and press. Lay and secure arbitrary pleats on the outer waistband.
4. Overcast the inner edge of the front facing. Fold the front facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the edge of the front and collar. Clip allowances, turn front facings to the wrong side, press. Overlap the right front piece over the left and secure them along the center lines.
5. Lay the waistband on the front piece and secure along the left side seam. Lay the back waistband on the left back piece and secure along the side and center seams.
6. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Secure the open edge of the waistband to the right center back seam.
7. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark downwards, press allowances open.
8. Clip the allowance at the corner near the shoulder seam and collar. Stitch shoulder seams, simultaneously inserting the collar into the neckline. Overcast allowances and press towards the back. Insert the zipper into the center seam. Topstitch the front facing to the collar attachment seam.
9. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances and overcast. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches.
10. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.