Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Contrasting fabric for trim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, zipper, 10 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the dress – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE FACE SIDE!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Right front - 1 piece
- Left front - 1 piece
- Neckline facing for front — 1 piece
- Neckline facing for back – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- From contrasting fabric:
- Insert - 1 piece
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Neckline facing for front — 1 piece
- Neckline facing for back – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to facing pieces.
- Stitch waist darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch bust dart on the right front, press allowance upwards.
- Finish the raw edges of the center back separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem. Press allowances open, pressing the zipper opening flat. Insert the zipper.
- Finish the raw edge of the integrated placket on the right front. Fold the placket to the wrong side along the marked line and baste. Basting is done in two steps: from the waistline to the shoulder seam and from the waistline to the bottom edge.
- Finish the raw edges of the side and bottom of the insert, press the bottom hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Finish the raw edge of the princess seam and the integrated placket on the left front. Fold the placket to the wrong side and baste. Place the left front onto the insert (the front edge is longer than the insert edge by the width of the bottom hem allowance) and topstitch.
- Place the right front onto the left front (the right front edge is longer than the insert edge by the width of the bottom hem allowance) and topstitch.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and finish.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, finish the outer edge. Place the dress with the facing right sides together, aligning the neckline edges, and stitch. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams and the zipper tape.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and finish. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and finish.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends, trim allowances at the corner. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, press. Stitch the sleeve facing into a loop, finish the outer edge. Place the facing with the sleeve right sides together, insert the cuff between the pieces, aligning the mark on the cuff with the sleeve seam, and stitch the bottom edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, shape, press and topstitch.
- Finish the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the front placket and cuffs.
