Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: jacket fabrics, quilted with synthetic padding; knitted fabric in a matching tone. ALSO NEEDED: lining; separating zipper; two zippers for pockets.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 3 cm. Sleeve hem allowance – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 1 piece
- Pocket facing – 4 pieces
- Pocket stay – 2 pieces
- From knitted fabric:
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
ATTENTION! Lining pieces are cut deducting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Mark the pocket placement on the front. Fold pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the facing for attaching it parallel to the fold. Stitch the facings to the front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening area. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bags right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening. Stitch the zipper, folding back the lining. Stitch the edges of the lining.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the jacket, press allowances open.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Attach the sleeve to the jacket, press allowances towards the garment.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the jacket, simultaneously with the sleeve seams.
- Stitch the outer side of the collar to the neckline. Clip and press allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the inner side of the collar to the neckline. Clip and press allowances open.
- Fold the front placket lengthwise in the middle right sides together and stitch the corners. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch along the outer fold, and along the top and bottom edges. Topstitch the left half of the zipper to the placket, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the placket.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, inserting the zipper, simultaneously stitching the collar. Start and end the stitch strictly at the marked hemline.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the side and shoulder seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam.
- Secure the collar attachment allowances to the neckline. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Turn the garment right side out. Stitch the armhole in 2 steps: the back armhole from the shoulder seam to the side seam, and the front armhole from the shoulder seam to the side seam through the opening in the side seam. Stitch the bottom edge of the lining to the bottom edge of the garment. Close the technical opening.
