Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; 4 buttons; decorative clasp.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 4 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Back waist tie – 1 piece
  • Front waist tie – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front waist tie – 2 pieces
  • Back waist tie – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
3. Stitch the darts on the center front piece according to markings. Stitch and press open the front princess seams.
4. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams of the outer neckline facings, press allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the inner neckline facings, press allowances open. Place the facings right sides together and stitch the upper and side edges. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facing right side out, press. Attach the facing to the garment.
6. Stitch the side seams of the waist tie pieces, press allowances open. Press the longitudinal edges to the wrong side. Place the waist tie on the jacket and topstitch 0.1 cm from the folds.
7. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve part and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
8. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
9. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the front facings to the lining.
10. Place the front facing with lining on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch the front edges and neckline, positioning the neckline facing between the main fabric and the lining. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam.
11. Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
12. On the right front piece, overcast buttonholes, on the left front piece, sew on buttons. Attach the decorative clasp.