Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: suiting fabric made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interlining; lining; 6 buttons; shoulder pads, sleeve heads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! MARKINGS ON PATTERNS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front right – 1 piece
  • Center front left – 1 piece
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Left front facing – 1 piece
  • Right front facing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERLINING:
  • Center front right – 1 piece
  • Center front left – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Left front facing – 1 piece
  • Right front facing – 1 piece
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Outer collar trim – 1 piece

ATTENTION: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the jacket bottom and sleeve bottom.
2. Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch relief seams of the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Stitch relief seams of the front, press allowances towards the center.
4. Stitch and press open side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
5. Place collars right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn collar right side out, shape, press. Attach collar to neckline.
6. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place front facings and facing with front piece right sides together and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and lower corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn front edges right side out, shape seams, press.
7. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
8. On lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press up the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach lining to the bottom of the garment and to the sleeve bottom. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
9. On the right front, overcast buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.