Fitted Collarless Button-Front Jacket

Name: Fitted Collarless Button-Front Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4731
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4731

A women's fitted collarless jacket of hip length with a round neckline, a four-button front, princess seams from the armhole front and back, and two patch pockets with rounded corners. Two-piece sleeves, full lining and decorative braid along the edges. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Collarless Jacket

When To Wear

For the office over a blouse or a fine knit top, with a straight skirt or trousers.
In spring and autumn as a jacket over dresses.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted to the waist, shaped by princess seams and darts in the centre front and centre back panels.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Collarless round neckline, finished with the front facings and a back neck facing; stay tape along the back neckline.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves, the upper sleeve eased into the elbow seam and the cap eased into the armhole; thin shoulder pads.

Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons, buttonholes on the right front. Interfaced centre fronts and facings; the front edge seam is understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.

Pockets: Two patch pockets with rounded lower corners, the upper edge turned under and topstitched.

Back: Centre back seam, side back panels.

Finishing: Decorative braid topstitched along the neckline, front edges, jacket hem and sleeve hems; the drawing also shows it along the pocket tops. Hem and sleeve hem allowances interfaced.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, cut without the width of the facings; bagged and turned through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams with darts, two-piece eased sleeves with shoulder pads, a bagged full lining, buttonholes and braid applied along curved edges.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, hem allowances)
Fusible stay tape (back neckline)
Thin shoulder pads
4 buttons
Decorative braid (approximate length is marked on the sleeve pattern piece)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowance for the upper edge of the pocket – 2 cm. Jacket hem and sleeve hem allowance – 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: the Center Back and Center Front lining pieces are cut minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing, respectively.
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Also, interface the jacket hem and sleeve hem allowances.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the pieces. Apply an additional fusible stay tape along the back neckline.
Stitch the dart on each Center Back. Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back) and press open. Stitch the center back seam and press open.
Stitch the dart on each Center Front and press it upwards. Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front) and press open.
Serge the Pocket allowances. Press the upper allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and lower allowances to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the fronts according to the markings and topstitch.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket and press open.
Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings and press open. Place the facing on the jacket right sides together and stitch the front edges and neckline in one continuous seam. Trim the allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the jacket right side out and press. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the facing, 0.2 cm from the seam. Press up the jacket hem.
Stitch the back (elbow) sleeve seam, easing the Upper Sleeve and matching the notches, and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Unfold the hem, stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing the sleeve cap. Attach the shoulder pads.
Stitch the seams of the lining and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the left sleeve's elbow seam for turning. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Stitch the opening closed.
Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons onto the left front.
Topstitch the decorative trim along the neckline, front edges, jacket hem and sleeve hems.