Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: low-stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: bias tape (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece), separating zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowance at the bottom edges of the back, front, and sleeve – 0 cm. Seam allowances at the outer edge of the hood – 0 cm. Seam allowance at the center edge of the right front – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST AND FOREMOST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Right front – 1 piece
- Left front – 1 piece
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Right hood – 1 piece
- Left hood – 1 piece
- Central hood part – 1 piece
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch bust darts, press seam allowances upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement. Cut two facings from bias tape equal to the pocket opening length + 3 cm. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening at 0.5 cm. Stitch the facings to the front, unfolding the bias tape. The ends of the stitching should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening, make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Stitch the pocket bags to the seam allowances of the facings. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overcast the allowances.
- Stitch the back sleeve part to the back, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Topstitch the seam allowances 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the front sleeve part to the front, press seam allowances towards the front and overcast. Topstitch the seam allowances 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the upper sleeve edges, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch the side edges, simultaneously with the sleeve edges, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the side parts of the hood to the central part, press seam allowances towards the central part and overcast. Topstitch the seam allowances 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Set the hood into the neckline, press seam allowances towards the hood and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Press the placket lengthwise in the middle, right side out. Stitch the placket to the left front, inserting the left part of the separating zipper between the marks. Press seam allowances towards the front and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Bind the edge of the front, hood, and bottom edge all around with bias tape.
- Place the right part of the separating zipper under the right front and topstitch into the seam of the bias tape attachment.
- Bind the bottom of the sleeve with bias tape.
