Raglan Sleeve Bomber Jacket
A hip-length women's bomber jacket with two-piece raglan sleeves, rib-knit collar, waistband and cuffs, a separating front zipper and slanted single-welt pockets. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a T-shirt, shirt or thin sweater.
- With jeans, trousers or a skirt for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight body gathered in by the rib waistband, with darts on the fronts.
Length: To the hip.
Collar: Stand-up rib collar folded in half lengthwise.
Sleeves: Raglan, each cut in a front and a back half joined by a seam along the top of the arm, finished with folded rib cuffs.
Closure: Separating zipper at the centre front, with a shaped interfaced placket stitched behind the zipper tape and front facings.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts with pocket bags of main and lining fabric.
Back: One piece cut on the fold.
Waist: Folded rib waistband in three parts; the front ends finish with a tab of main fabric.
Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, attached to the facings, back neck facing and waistband.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, a separating zipper set between the front and the facing, rib bands and a full bagged lining turned through the sleeve seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Main parts: dense jacket fabrics of natural or blended fibres. Collar, waistband and cuffs: knit fabric of medium to high stretch.
Additional Supplies
- Knit fabric for the collar, waistband and cuffs
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, placket, welts)
- Separating zipper
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- From knit fabric:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back Waistband – 1 piece
- Front Waistband – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Placket – 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
Attention: the Front and Back lining pieces are cut from the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and the Back Neckline Facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches – they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, the Back Neckline Facing, one Placket piece and the Off-Set Welts.
- Stitch the darts on the Fronts, press the dart depths upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement and fuse interfacing over it. Press each Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the Front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the Bigger Pocket Bag to the Front along the upper pocket marking line. End both stitching lines at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening, making diagonal cuts towards the corners 1–1.5 cm from each end. Turn the welt and the Bigger Pocket Bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch across the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bags together around the edges.
- Stitch the Back Sleeves to the Back along the raglan seams and press the seams open. Stitch the Front Sleeves to the Fronts and press the seams open. Stitch the seams along the top of the sleeves and press them open.
- Press the Collar in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the Collar to the neckline of the Back and Fronts.
- Place the two Placket pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Clip the allowances on the curves, turn the Placket right side out, ease out the edges and press. Stitch the right half of the separating zipper to the Placket.
- Stitch the Tab to the end of each Front Waistband. Press the seam and topstitch. Stitch the Front Waistbands to the Fronts. Stitch the Back Waistband to the Back.
- Place the Fronts right sides together, match the edges and check that both front edges are the same length. Stitch the separating zipper to the front edges.
- Stitch the Center Front Facing to the inner edge of the Tab. Place the Center Front Facing on the Front, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge and the neckline, stitching from the Front side. Turn the front edges right side out, ease out the seams and press.
- Stitch the underarm seams of the sleeves and the side seams in one line. Press the seams open.
- Sew the lining pieces together in the same way as the main fabric, leaving an opening in the underarm seam of the right sleeve. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings, the Back Neckline Facing and the inner edge of the waistband. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the opening closed. Stitch in the ditch of the waistband seam to secure the layers.
- Stitch each Cuff into a ring. Press it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the Cuffs to the lower edges of the sleeves and sleeve lining together, overlock the allowances.
