Jersey Jacket with Raglan Sleeves and Welt Pockets
A women's hip-length jacket in low-stretch knit fabric, with an off-centre front closure on hidden hooks, a wide fold-over collar, two-piece raglan sleeves and slanted welt pockets. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over a top or a fine sweater, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- For the office as a soft alternative to a tailored jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, slightly widening towards the hem, with bust darts on the fronts.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: A wide collar folded in half lengthwise, set between the jacket and the facings; at the front it follows the asymmetric overlap.
Sleeves: Raglan, each made of a front and a back part with a seam along the top of the arm; small raglan shoulder pads. The sleeves end above the wrist.
Closure: The right front overlaps the left with the edge set off-centre; six hooks and eyes, sewn to the right facing and the left front, keep the closure hidden.
Pockets: Two slanted single-welt pockets in the fronts, with lining pocket bags.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, no centre back seam.
Lining: Full lining including sleeves, sewn to the facings and to the hems of jacket and sleeves; 3 cm hem allowances.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Welt pockets, raglan sleeves in two parts, a collar set between the jacket and the facings, and a bagged lining turned through an opening in the side seam.
Fabric Recommendations
Low-stretch knit fabric from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front facings, back neck facing, welts)
- Small raglan shoulder pads
- 6 hooks and eyes
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the collar, center front facings, off-set welts and back neckline facing with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the fronts, press the dart depths upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the off-set welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the smaller pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the bigger pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The stitching ends at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from each end of the pocket. Turn the welt and the bigger pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bags together along their edges.
- Attach the back sleeves to the back, press allowances to one side. Attach the front sleeves to the fronts, press allowances towards the sleeve.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seams, press allowances towards the back. Stitch the lower sleeve seams and side seams with one seam, press allowances towards the back. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the center front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Place the center front facings and back neckline facing right side down onto the right side of the jacket and stitch the front edges and lower corners.
- Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends, trim allowances at the corners. Turn the collar right side out and press.
- Attach the undercollar to the back and front neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back neckline facing and center front facings, press allowances open. Secure the collar attachment allowances to each other close to the seams.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and attach the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the upper part of the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and back neckline facing.
- Stitch the lining to the hem of the jacket and the hems of the sleeves. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the turning opening closed.
- Sew the hooks to the right center front facing. Sew the eyes to the left front to match.
