Tailored Panel Coat
Introducing a sophisticated women's coat pattern featuring intricate vertical paneling, a distinctive stand collar with wide lapels, and a flattering a-line silhouette.
When To Wear
This tailored coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an ideal choice for:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for adding a polished and authoritative touch to office wear or business meetings.
- Elegant Daywear: Perfect for refined outings, cultural events, or upscale casual occasions during cooler seasons.
- Statement Outerwear: a unique garment designed to elevate any ensemble with its structured silhouette and striking details.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored a-line silhouette, fitted through the bust and waist, gracefully flaring to the hem.
Neckline & Collar: Features a stand collar combined with broad, rounded lapels that create a distinctive, sharp V-neckline when open.
Closure: Single-breasted front closure with four prominent buttons, accentuating the central panel line.
Sleeves: Full-length, two-piece set-in sleeves, shaped for a sleek and tailored fit.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with pointed flaps are strategically placed on the lower front panels.
Back: a paneled back with a central seam and a half-belt detail at the waist, secured with two buttons, enhancing the contoured fit.
Details: Intricate vertical seaming throughout the front and back, offering opportunities for contrasting fabric or trim accents as seen in the styled photo.
Length: a versatile mid-thigh to just-above-the-knee length, providing ample coverage while maintaining a modern profile.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires experience with tailored garments, including precise panel matching, collar and lapel construction, welt pockets, set-in sleeves, and full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose coat-weight fabrics from natural or blended fibers that provide structure and drape:
- Wool coating
- Tweed
- Cashmere blends
- Gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
- 23 buttons, 2 – 2.5 cm diameter
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back center – qty 2
- Back side – qty 2
- Front center left – qty 1
- Front center right – qty 1
- Front side – qty 2
- Front upper middle — qty 2
- Front lower middle — qty 2
- Right front placket – qty 1
- Back neckline facing – qty 1
- Underlap – qty 2
- Sleeve upper – qty 2
- Sleeve lower – qty 2
- Belt – qty 1
- Upper collar – qty 1
- Lower collar – qty 1
- Collar stand – qty 2
- Flap – qty 2
- Pocket frame – qty 4
From lining fabric:
- Back center – qty 2
- Back side – qty 2
- Front lining – qty 2
- Large pocket bag – qty 2
- Small pocket bag – qty 2
- Sleeve upper – qty 2
- Sleeve lower – qty 2
Attention: back pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the neckline facing.
From fusible interfacing:
- Front center left – qty 1
- Front center right – qty 1
- Front side – qty 2
- Front upper middle — qty 2
- Front lower middle — qty 2
- Right front placket – qty 1
- Back neckline facing – qty 1
- Underlap – qty 2
- Upper collar – qty 1
- Lower collar stand – qty 1
- Flap – qty 2
- Pocket frame – qty 4
- Belt – qty 1
Also, armhole areas on the back, garment hem, vent, and sleeve hem are interfaced.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the front upper middle to the side. Press the seam allowance towards the middle and topstitch 0.8 cm from the edge. Stitch the front lower middle to the pieces. Press the seam allowance towards the middle and topstitch 0.8 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the pieces to the front center. Clip the seam allowance at the corner, press towards the center and topstitch 0.8 cm from the edge. Stitch the placket to the right front. Press the seam allowance towards the placket and topstitch 0.8 cm from the edge.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the pieces right side out and press. Topstitch the flap on three sides 0.8 cm from the edge.
- On the right side of the front, mark the pocket placement and the frame stitching lines, extending the marking line to the desired flap length. Fold the pocket frames in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket frame for stitching it parallel to the fold. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for stitching it parallel to the upper edge of the flap. Stitch the upper pocket bag to the flap. Stitch the frames to the front. The ends of the stitches finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frames through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the pressed folds of the frames meet flush with each other. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and stitch to the upper pocket frame. Stitch the lower pocket bag into the seam of the lower frame. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the relief seams of the back and front, press the seam allowances open.
- On the wrong side of the back pieces, interface the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left back along the vent fold line. Align the pieces along the center seam. Stitch the center edge of the back and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm before the vertical edge of the vent. Clip the seam allowance corner of the vent seam on the right. Press the center seam seam allowances open, press the vent seam allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances open. Overlock the side seams.
- Stitch the upper collar to the collar stand, stitch the lower collar to the collar stand. Press the seam allowances open.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and side edges. Start and end the seam strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and underlap. Press the seams open.
- Overlock and press the hem allowance. Place the underlap on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge. Stitching is performed upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. At the mark, clip the seam allowance. Stitch the lower edge of the underlap to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the underlap. Turn the edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- Attach the upper collar to the neckline, and the lower collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and underlap. Press the seams open. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
- Stitch and press towards the upper
