Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL insert – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL insert – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
  • SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
  • COLLAR stand – 2 QTY
  • Underlap – 2 QTY
  • Welt pocket – 2 QTY
  • CUFF – 2 QTY
  • BACK neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
  • BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
  • SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
  • SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
  • Pocket bag – 4 QTY
  • Fly LINING – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
  • FRONT PANEL insert – 2 QTY
  • COLLAR stand – 1 QTY
  • Underlap – 2 QTY
  • Welt pocket – 2 QTY
  • CUFF – 2 QTY
  • BACK neckline FACING – 1 QTY
  • Fly LINING – 1 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the corresponding pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Fold the welt pocket pieces right sides together and stitch along the side edges. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge. Attach the pocket bag to the welt pocket.
3. Attach the FRONT PANEL insert to the side FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Place the pocket bag on the right side of the side FRONT PANEL, and the pocket bag with the attached welt pocket on the center FRONT PANEL, right side down. Attach the pocket bag to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE. Fold the side FRONT PANEL seam and topstitch it to the pocket bag.
4. Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL and the pocket bag. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press the princess seam SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center, pressing the pocket. Topstitch the side edges of the welt pocket to the side FRONT PANEL.
5. Stitch the center back seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Attach the BACK PANEL insert to the side BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the princess seams of the BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center.
6. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
7. Mark the fly opening with three lines on the right underlap's right side: the first line is parallel to the edge and 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the fused LINING on the right side of the underlap, right side down, from the edge, aligning the LINING's cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the fly opening up to the lines defining the opening's length. Place the second fly LINING flush with the stitching of the first LINING and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the LINING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the fly opening. Turn the LININGS through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the fused LINING equal to the width between the stitches. Topstitch along the LINING attachment seam. Press the second LINING towards the inner edge of the underlap and topstitch 0.1 cm from the LINING attachment seam. Mark and overcast the buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the underlap together with the fused LINING. Straighten and secure the ends of the opening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the LINING edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the frame width. Press the underlap.
8. Attach the BACK neckline FACING to the underlaps, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
9. Attach the outer COLLAR stand to the coat neckline, and the inner COLLAR stand to the underlaps and FACING neckline, clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, press open. Fold the underlaps with the garment and stitch the edges and COLLAR stand in one seam, inserting a decorative loop into the right side of the COLLAR stand. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the garment right side out, and press.
10. Stitch the front SLEEVE seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
11. Press the CUFF in half lengthwise, right side out. Unfold the CUFF and attach the outer side to the lower SLEEVE edge, press SEAM ALLOWANCES onto the CUFF. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE, simultaneously stitching the CUFF.
12. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
13. On the LINING pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam. Place the LINING right sides together with the coat and attach it to the inner edges of the underlaps and the BACK neckline FACING. Press the COLLAR stand attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES open and secure them close to the seams. Stitch the lower corner of the edge, trim the corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Finish the hem of the garment with the LINING. Attach the LINING SLEEVES to the inner CUFF. Turn the coat through the opening in the SLEEVE and stitch the technical opening.
14. Topstitch.