Mid-Length Asymmetric Hooded Belted Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL upper side – 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL lower side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL upper side – 2 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL lower side – 2 QTY
6. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
7. FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
8. Placket – 2 QTY
9. SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
10. SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
11. Hood – 4 QTY
12. Front FACING – 2 QTY
13. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
14. Belt – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL upper side – 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL lower side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL LINING – 2 QTY
5. SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
6. SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
7. Pocket bag – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
2. Front FACING – 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• Also, SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem of the garment and SLEEVE hem.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the pieces.
2. Stitch the center back seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the back lower side and back upper side parts, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the back princess seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center.
3. Fuse the FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the upper edge SEAM ALLOWANCE of the FRONT PANEL side part. Place the pocket bag on the right side of the FRONT PANEL side part and stitch around the pocket opening. Fold the LINING to the wrong side and topstitch onto the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Place the piece on the FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL and secure along the edges. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overcast SEAM ALLOWANCES.
4. Stitch the FRONT PANEL upper side and FRONT PANEL lower side parts, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards. Attach the placket to the FRONT PANEL center, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the placket and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the FRONT PANEL princess seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
6. Attach the BACK PANEL neckline FACING to the front FACINGS, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
7. Stitch the hood pieces in pairs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Insert the outer hood into the coat neckline, and the inner hood into the neckline of the front FACINGS and FACING, clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, press open. Fold the front FACINGS with the garment and stitch the edges of the fronts and hood in one seam. Turn the garment to the right side, press. Secure the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the hood insertion seams close to the seams.
8. Stitch the front SLEEVE seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the elbow SLEEVE seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
9. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE heads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch seams and darts, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam. Fold the LINING face to face with the coat and attach to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and BACK PANEL neckline FACING. Stitch the lower corner of the front, trim the corners. Mark and press the garment hem and SLEEVE hem to the wrong side. Finish the garment hem and SLEEVE hem with the LINING. Turn the coat through the opening in the SLEEVE and stitch the technical opening closed.
11. On the right placket, overcast buttonholes, and sew on buttons accordingly. On the left placket, overcast the first and third buttonholes, and sew on under-buttons accordingly.
12. Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the belt to the right side. Stitch the technical opening closed.