Fitted Sleeveless Dress with Pleated Bodice

Name: Fitted Sleeveless Dress with Pleated Bodice
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4282
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4282

A women's sleeveless dress with a fitted, lined bodice and a flared skirt. The front bodice has a centre front seam and pleats angled towards it below the V-neck; the skirt has two double inverted pleats on the front and two on the back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: striped dress fabrics with good drape, of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Sleeveless Dress with Pleated Bodice

When To Wear

In summer, on its own, or with a light cardigan or jacket on cooler days.
With a thin contrasting belt at the waist seam, as recommended for this dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice joined to the skirt at the natural waist; the skirt flares out from the pleats.

Length: Around the knee.

Neckline: Deep V-neck at the front, a shallower V-neck at the back, finished with the lining.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; the armholes are faced with the lining.

Front: Two bodice fronts joined by a centre front seam, with three pleats on each side; the upper and middle pleats are pressed down, the lower one towards the side seam.

Back: Centre back seam and waist darts pressed towards the centre.

Skirt: Front and back each cut in one piece on the fold, each with two double inverted pleats secured at the waist and pressed for a third of their length.

Closure: Invisible zipper in the left side seam.

Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up and blind-stitched.

Lining: The bodice is fully lined; the lining is cut from the same pieces as the bodice and stitched into the waist seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Marked bodice pleats, a lined bodice with neckline and armholes stitched in one pass, double inverted skirt pleats and an invisible zipper.

Fabric Recommendations

Striped dress fabrics with good drape, of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Invisible zipper

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:

Front – 2 pieces
Back – 2 pieces
Front skirt half – 1 piece on fold
Back skirt half – 1 piece on fold

From lining fabric:

Front – 2 pieces
Back – 2 pieces

Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns.

Sewing Instructions

On the front, mark and stitch the pleats along the marked line. Press the upper and middle pleats downwards, press the lower pleat towards the side seam. Stitch the center edge of the front. The stitching should start strictly at the marked neckline. Press seam allowances open. Process the lining pieces in the same way.
On the back, stitch the darts. Press the darts towards the center edge. Stitch the center edge of the back. The stitching should start strictly at the marked neckline. Press seam allowances open. Process the lining pieces in the same way.
Place the front and lining right sides together and stitch the armhole and neckline edges. Clip the seam allowances at curves, turn the pieces right side out and press.
Place the back and lining right sides together and stitch the armhole and neckline edges. Clip the seam allowances at curves.
Insert the shoulder edges of the front between the shoulder edges of the main fabric and lining of the back. Stitch the shoulder edges. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
Place the right side edge of the back with the right side edge of the front (without lining), align the armhole line and stitch, continuing the seam onto the lining pieces. Press seam allowances open. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
Similarly, place the pieces along the left side edge. Stitch the section between the notches on the lining pieces and on the main fabric pieces. Press seam allowances open. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
On the front skirt half, create 2 double inverted pleats. Secure the pleats along the upper edge and press for 1/3 of their length. Similarly, create pleats on the back skirt half.
On the skirt pieces, stitch, press, and overlock the right side edge. Overlock the left side edge separately, stitch from the notch to the bottom, and press open.
Stitch the bodice to the skirt only on the main fabric pieces. Press seam allowances upwards. Insert the zipper only on the main fabric pieces. Press seam allowances.
Fold the bottom edge of the lining inwards and topstitch into the skirt attachment seam. Fold the left side edge of the lining and sew it to the zipper tape.
Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, fold it, and hem with blind stitches. The dress is recommended to be worn with a thin contrasting belt.