Structured Poncho with Scarf Collar
A women's poncho in coat fabric with a curved hem, a long collar whose ends tie like a scarf, a five-button front with facings and arm slits in the front seams.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring as outerwear over a dress, jumper or jacket.
- Over trousers or a narrow skirt, with the collar ends tied at the neck.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Wide cape shape falling from the shoulders, with a rounded hem.
Collar: Long collar in two halves joined at the centre back; the ends hang free and tie at the front like a scarf.
Sleeves: Separate sleeve sections over the shoulders, joined to the back with an angled seam and to the front with a bias seam. The front seam is left open below a mark as an arm slit, topstitched 1.5 cm from the edge.
Front: Front edge finished with front facings; five buttonholes on the right front and buttons on the left.
Back: Centre back seam.
Finishing: Seams overlocked and pressed open; hem overlocked, turned in and topstitched; back neck facing.
Lining: Unlined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Angled seams with clipped corners, arm slits, a collar set in two layers between the poncho and its facings, and buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin, soft coat fabrics.
Additional Supplies
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neck facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the back of the sleeve to the back. Clip the seam allowances at the corner, overlock and press open. Stitch the center seam of the back. Overlock and press open the seam allowances.
- Overlock the upper and bias edges on the front. Overlock the corresponding edges on the sleeve. Stitch the front to the sleeve, ending the seam at the mark. Press open the seam allowances. Along the slit, stitch 1.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing and front facing. Press open the seam allowances. Overlock the outer edge. Place the front facing onto the right side of the poncho and stitch along the front edge. Stitch the neckline from the mark to the front edge. Clip the seam allowance at the mark.
- Stitch the center seam of the collar. Press open the seam allowances. Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the corners and long sides from the corner to the T-shaped mark. Clip the seam allowance at the mark. Turn the collar right side out and press. Stitch the upper collar to the neckline of the back and front, and the lower collar to the neckline of the facing and front facing. Press open the seam allowances. From the wrong side, secure the seam allowances close to the collar insertion seam.
- Overlock the bottom of the poncho, fold the edges inwards and topstitch.
- On the right front, make the buttonholes; on the left front, sew on the buttons.
