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#4191
#4194

Pleated Yoke Sheath Dress with Lace Sleeves

Pattern #4193

A fitted women's sheath dress with princess seams, shoulder yokes, a pleated front inset with a keyhole slit and a V-shaped chiffon inset at the upper back. Short pleated sleeves end in a chiffon band; an invisible zipper sits in the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres; chiffon for the back inset and the lower sleeves.

Tech. Description

Pleated Yoke Sheath Dress

A fitted women's sheath dress with princess seams, shoulder yokes, a pleated front inset with a keyhole slit and a V-shaped chiffon inset at the upper back. Short pleated sleeves end in a chiffon band; an invisible zipper sits in the left side seam.

When To Wear

  • For the office and daytime events in spring and summer.
  • For family celebrations and dinners, with heeled shoes and a light jacket or wrap.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting sheath shaped by princess seams on the front and back, straight to the hem, about knee length.

Neckline: Round neckline bound with bias tape.

Front: Front yokes from the neckline to the armholes. The front inset is cut in two halves joined at the centre, with a keyhole slit left open between two marks and inverted pleats laid at the neckline edge. The inset joins the centre front in a curved seam below the bust that dips to a point at the centre.

Back: V-shaped chiffon inset between the back yokes, with a bound slit at the neck closed by a chiffon loop and a small button. Centre back seam with a slit at the hem.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with pleats pressed downwards, joined to a chiffon lower sleeve; the lower edge is bound with bias tape.

Closure: Invisible zipper in the left side seam; loop and button at the back neck slit.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem sewn by hand with blind stitches.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats laid to markings, a keyhole slit in a seam, bias-bound edges on chiffon, a back slit, an invisible zipper and set-in sleeves.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres; chiffon for the back inset and the lower sleeves.

Additional Supplies

  • Chiffon (back inset, lower sleeves, button loop)
  • Invisible zipper
  • Bias tape (approximate length marked on the pattern pieces)
  • 1 small button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the dress and along the slit of the center back – 2.0 cm. Allowance along the lower edge of the sleeve and along the neckline edge of the back inset, back yoke, front yoke and front inset – 0 cm. Other allowances – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

  • From main fabric:
    • Center Back – 2 pieces
    • Side Back – 2 pieces
    • Back Yoke – 2 pieces
    • Front Yoke – 2 pieces
    • Side Front – 2 pieces
    • Center Front – 1 piece
    • Front Inset – 2 pieces
    • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • From chiffon:
    • Back Inset – 1 piece
    • Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

  1. On the back inset, cut a slit along the marking, bind it with bias tape, and stitch the lower corner.
  2. Overlock the center back edges of the center backs. Stitch the center back seam precisely from the marked inset attachment line down to the slit mark. Press allowances open, pressing the sides of the slit. Stitch along the slit 0.1 cm from the edge. Attach the back inset to the center backs, press allowances down and overlock.
  3. Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the side seam and overlock. Attach the back yokes to the back, press allowances up and overlock.
  4. Overlock the center edges of the front insets. Stitch the center seam of the front insets from the upper edge to the first mark and from the second mark to the lower edge, leaving a slit between them. Press allowances open, pressing the slit. At the upper edge, create and secure inverted pleats according to the marking.
  5. Attach the front inset to the center front, press allowances up and overlock. Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the side seam and overlock. Attach the front yokes to the front, press allowances up and overlock.
  6. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Bind the neckline with bias tape. Make a small hanging loop from chiffon and sew it to the right side of the back inset slit. Sew a button to the left side of the slit.
  7. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Overlock the left side seam separately and stitch, leaving the section between the marks unstitched. Press the seam open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the invisible zipper.
  8. Stitch the sleeve to the lower sleeve, press allowances up and overlock. Create and secure pleats according to the marking, with depths directed downwards. Bind the lower edge of the sleeve with bias tape. Stitch the sleeve seam, press and overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Press allowances towards the armhole and overlock.
  9. Overlock the hem allowance of the dress, press it to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.

Order Pattern

Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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