Peplum Sheath Dress with Open Darts

Name: Peplum Sheath Dress with Open Darts
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4189
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4189

A fitted, above-knee women's dress with a waist seam, a lined bodice with cut-on cap sleeves and soft folds from released darts at the neckline, a front opening in a deep V over an insert, and a two-layer peplum. Princess-seamed skirt and an invisible zipper at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: firm dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Peplum Sheath Dress with Open Darts

When To Wear

At the office and for business meetings, with court shoes.
For daytime events and dinners in spring and summer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Sheath, joined at the waist; bodice shaped by waist darts, skirt by princess seams.

Length: Above the knee.

Neckline: Round; the front and back necklines are gathered into soft folds by darts stitched only to 2 cm below the upper edge.

Sleeves: Cap sleeves cut in one with the bodice; armholes finished with the lining.

Front: Two bodice fronts folded back along marked lines, meeting at the waist in a deep V that shows a separate front insert.

Waist: Peplum of two double-layer pieces, each with its front corner folded back; it opens at the centre front and its back ends are caught in the princess seams of the back skirt.

Back: Centre back seam with an invisible zipper; princess seams in the skirt.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; 3 cm hem overlocked and hemmed with blind stitches.

Lining: Bodice lined; the lining faces the neckline and armholes, is sewn to the zipper tape and joined to the dress at the waist seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Released neckline darts, a folded front over an insert, a peplum set into princess seams, an invisible zipper and a bodice lining that finishes the neckline and armholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Firm dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Invisible zipper

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress bottom – 3 cm; other allowances – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Upper back - 2 pieces
- Central lower back - 2 pieces
- Side lower back - 2 pieces
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Front insert - 1 piece
- Central lower front - 1 piece
- Side lower front - 2 pieces
- Peplum – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Upper back - 2 pieces
- Front lining – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

On the upper back and front pieces, stitch the waist darts, press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the upper darts 2 cm from the upper edge. Press the dart folds towards the center.
Attach the insert to the front, press the allowances. Press the front along the marked lines, secure at the upper and lower edges.
Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the upper of the garment. Press the allowances towards the back.
Fold the peplum pieces right sides together and stitch the front and lower edges. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the pieces right side out, press. Fold back the front corner and secure at the upper edge.
Stitch the princess seams of the lower front, press the allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the side seams of the lower of the garment, press the allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch the princess seams of the lower back, inserting the peplum between the pieces, press the allowances towards the center and serge.
Secure the upper edge of the peplum to the upper edge of the lower. Stitch the upper of the garment to the lower, press the allowances upwards and serge.
Serge the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark downwards, press the allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
On the lining pieces, process the darts similarly to the main fabric pieces. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back. Serge the lower and center seams. Fold the lining with the neckline right sides together. Fold back the lining 5 mm from the edges of the concealed zipper and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin to the neckline edge over the lining. Stitch the neckline edge, clip the allowances at curves. Turn the piece right side out and press. Finish the armhole with lining in two steps: first the left, then the right. Clip the allowances at corners and curves, press. Fold under the center seam of the lining and attach it to the zipper tape. Secure the lining to the garment at the waist seam.
Serge the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hand stitch with blind stitches.