Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Chiffon for trim. Also needed: concealed zipper; bias binding (approximate length indicated on patterns); small button.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the dress and along the slit of the center back part – 2.0 cm. Allowance along the lower edge of the sleeve, along the neckline edge of the back insert, back yoke, front yoke, front insert – 0 cm. Other allowances – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Back yoke - 2 pieces
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Center front part – 1 piece
- Front insert — 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From chiffon:
- Back insert - 1 piece
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- On the back insert, make a slit according to the marking, bind it with bias tape, and stitch the lower corner.
- Overcast the center edges of the center back part. Stitch the center edge of the center back part precisely from the marked line of the insert attachment to the slit mark. Press allowances open, pressing the sides of the slit. Stitch along the slit 0.1 cm from the edge. Attach the back insert to the center part, press allowances down and overcast.
- Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the side seam and overcast. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances up and overcast.
- Overcast the center edge of the front insert. Stitch the center edge of the front insert from the upper edge to the mark and from the mark to the lower edge. Press allowances open, pressing the slit. At the upper edge, create and secure inverted pleats according to the marking.
- Attach the front insert to the center part, press allowances up and overcast. Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the side seam and overcast. Attach the yoke to the front, press allowances up and overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Bind the neckline with bias tape. Create a small fabric loop from chiffon, sew it to the right side of the back slit. Sew a button to the left side of the slit.
- Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seam separately and stitch, leaving the section between the marks unstitched. Press the seam open, pressing the zipper slit. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the sleeve to the lower part, press allowances up and overcast. Create and secure pleats according to the marking, with depths directed downwards. Bind the lower edge of the sleeve with bias tape. Stitch, press, and overcast the sleeve edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Press allowances towards the armhole and overcast.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press it to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.
